Motor mount change leads to rear xmission seal renewal

PostPost by: Yum-yum » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:11 am

So I performed an overdue exhaust side (LHS) motor mount replacement, this would be the third or fourth such on the same side in 20 years of ownership. I pulled the generator and headers for easier access. I also made a heat shield per the pattern described here:
elan-f15/engine-mount-heat-shield-t17722.html
Thanks for the pattern, Dan.
But I cut off the upper right hand mount tab for easier mounting. The shield still has two diagonal screw holes holding it on. (Yes, the mount itself still has all four screws.) I'll see how long this mount lasts.
phpzpkPr8PM(2).jpg and

I took my time with the exchange and in the course the front end of the car was raised for a period of about a week. At the end of the week I had a puddle of gear oil, not a lot but enough, under the car. Pretty sure it's from the transmission rear seal. I've read a couple posts saying the servicing of the rear seal can be performed with the engine and transmission in situ, so I'm going to give that a try. Any advice or handy tools to make the job easier? Is there a preferred access side from inside the car through the frame holes? My garage is smallish and if I know ahead of time I can stand the car up to allow more room on that side.
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PostPost by: andyhodg » Thu Oct 29, 2009 1:56 pm

I can't speak for the Elan but on my +2 there is an access hole (aprox 3" diameter) in the tunnel that is hidden by the drivers seat (RHD) there is an existing flap in the carpet that can be lifted to give access to the hole. I need to remove the drivers seat to get good access.

Good Luck

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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:56 pm

andyhodg wrote:I can't speak for the Elan but on my +2 there is an access hole (aprox 3" diameter) in the tunnel that is hidden by the drivers seat (RHD) there is an existing flap in the carpet that can be lifted to give access to the hole. I need to remove the drivers seat to get good access.

True for my Elan and I think all Elans. The hole should be sealed by a large grommet. I've never attempted to replace the seal in situ but have heard that it can be done.
Keep in mind that your leak may be due in part to a worn prop shaft yoke. Since there is very little fore-and-aft movement of the prop shaft relative to the engine/transmission, the seal bears on one area of the yoke and it will wear over time.
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PostPost by: Yum-yum » Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:17 pm

Thanks for the replies and feedback. I'll know more about the condition of the yoke when I get in there. I know about the hole plug access through the frame as I've been that far before, just don't remember if there is access both sides, and if so, whether one side works better for this job than the other. It will be easy enough to make an exploratory mission. I know an engine and transmission pull isn't much for a lot of you, I guess I'm lazy that way and will try the simpler ways first. I can always revert if need be.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:43 pm

Just a thought but have you checked to see how much oil the box is loosing/using? If its not a lot, and I'll lay money on it being very little, I would leave it alone. It will keep your chasis healthy. Look on it as an automatic chassis lubrication device.

Top it up then check the level after a week. Might not have lost much.

Worth a try?

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PostPost by: david.g.chapman » Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:46 pm

Good luck to you if you do it, and please let us know how you get on (I am thinking of doing the same thing)!

Mind you Alex B could be right - a lot of elans leak in that area. I lose 0.25 litres every 1500 miles through mine from the topped up level. I wonder if it slows down as the level drops?

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PostPost by: vintrace » Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:46 pm

Some years ago I we transported two cars in a 1-1/2 car trailer? consequently my Elan had to travel with it?s nose up in the air. It too leaked gear oil? it had never done it before..and once back into its normal ride mode has never done it since? I think there is a very good chance your leak may go away after now its back with all fours on the road again. If you do decide to change the seal check the core plug in the back of the yolk.. I had a car leak there, thought it was the seal.. Good luck, hope you have small hands..;+) Or is that what the wife is for?
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PostPost by: elancoupe » Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:59 pm

I would second checking the yoke for wear. I had a rear gearbox leak, and a new seal didn't fix it.

Had I looked more carefully at the yoke, would have seen the worn spot. :(
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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:36 am

I'm with Alex, Dave and vintrace on this one. Don't do anything until you see if it still leaks after topping off. How much oil was on the ground? Silver Dollar size? Small pizza? Large pizza? Eric
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PostPost by: 69S4 » Fri Oct 30, 2009 7:41 am

vintrace wrote: If you do decide to change the seal check the core plug in the back of the yolk.. I had a car leak there, thought it was the seal


Our last house had the driveway on a slope and after after replacing the propshaft the car constantly leaked oil from the rear of the gearbox despite a new seal. I eventually pulled the propshaft out to find that there was no core plug in the yoke. The suppliers replaced it and its been fine ever since.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:42 am

The core plug is a def' leak point. 1st thing to do is see if you can look thro' the yoke. (Very common!!) If you can, there's your leak!! The oil drives up the splines in its bid for freedom.

The only thing I would add to the coreplug issue is that you can't miss this problem. Nor can you run the car like this. It will loose lots of oil. You would need to top up very frequently.

I think your coreplug will be ok. But hey!.... Top it up and monitor it.

Doing the tail seal thro' the hole will be super fun. Do-able I think but it will be tricky. Be very carefull not to damage the new seal.

Best of luck with it.

Alex.... 8)
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Oct 30, 2009 9:18 am

Hello
I've just read and something just popped into my head, did you have the front of the car in the air to change the mount?
If so I 'm sure I've read that the seals can't take the oil full against them.
Once the car was level again and the oil at a normal level it may be OK?

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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sat Oct 31, 2009 12:18 pm

If and when you pull the driveshaft, and you see the yoke is worn where the seal rides it, this might be a solution:

http://www.microsleeve.com/csrs.html

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PostPost by: Yum-yum » Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:00 am

"If and when you pull the driveshaft, and you see the yoke is worn where the seal rides it, this might be a solution:"

Thanks, I like that idea a lot. I'll look into those if the need arises.
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PostPost by: Carlos A » Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:33 pm

So ..... what happened? I like to know the end of this saga. Carlos

BTW: is there access via the tunnel that is hidden by the passanger seat?

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