Sump Gasket

[steveww]

Is there an alternative to the regular cork sump gasket?

I find that the cork shrinks back and starts seep oil. Tightening up the bolts then tends to squeeze the cork out from in between the mating surfaces, causing more seeping of oil

[memnon]

I don't know about an alternative, but I've done these using a thin smear of thick grease on both sides of the gakest and then lightly nipping up and then about a 1/4 turn more, the "secret" for me was not to over tighten

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hi Steve,

it doesn't matter really what you apply to cork gaskets they will leak or at least sweat oil after a period of time.
It's the nature of the beast.
One solution would be to make a gasket from modern materials which can be bought in sheet form, but don't ask me where.
That's a lot of work & hole punches will be needed.
The modern 100% solution is to eliminate the gasket entirely, thoroughly degrease the sealing sufraces (very important that bit) & then apply a Silicone sealant to the surface just proir to assenbly.
The sealant should be applied to the outer perimiter of the Sump (Oil Pan) & completely around the bolt holes but avoiding an excess that could fall into the Sump.
The advantage of liquid sealants is that they will seal scratches & dents in the sealing surfaces, which is something that Gaskets just cannot do.
Most modern production cars use this form of sealant in order to achieve good "Right first time" statistics & "lifetime oiltightness"
in order to comply with regulations such as the "SHED" test for hydrocarbon emissions.
Trouble is the Sump sticks to the crankcase like "5hit to a blanket" & fair bit of force & patience will be req'd upon removal.
The sump flange will probably disstort a bit when doing that but a hammer will get it back into shape.

Cheers
John

[bcmc33]

For transmissions in a previous lifetime we used a Loctite RTV to seal all metal to metal faces. Gaskets were never used.

Sad, I know, but I easily found a data sheet in my records for one of the compounds we used.

[AussieJohn]

Burtons do one out of a fibre material with neoprene end seals, this has a good reputation but the rear seal needs thinning as the sump set was for a 711m which has a wider slot.

[paddy]

I was told that the key to getting the cork sump gasket right and stop it from spreading is to glue it to the block with impact adhesive (ie evostik). Follow the usual procedure, ie very (very) thin coat of glue on both sides, leave until tacky, and then stick. Leave overnight.

Then to fit ths sump, do so with the lightest smear of RTV spread evenly (not a thick bead), wait until a bit tacky and then fit the sump. Tighten only to 4 or 6 lbs.

This way the gasket doesn't spread and keeps its shape and (assuming the sump was completely straight to start with) keeps completely oil-tight.

I should say I haven't tried this technique myself but it was suggested by someone who has been building them that way for many years and it sounds plausible. With RTV on both sides, even the lightest pressure will cause it to spread out.

Paddy

[steveww]

Burtons do one out of a fibre material with neoprene end seals, this has a good reputation but the rear seal needs thinning as the sump set was for a 711m which has a wider slot.

I think I will give this one a go. You have to trim the cork ones as well anyway.

[types26/36]

Burtons do one out of a fibre material with neoprene end seals, this has a good reputation but the rear seal needs thinning as the sump set was for a 711m which has a wider slot.

I think I will give this one a go. You have to trim the cork ones as well anyway.

Fit the 711 rear oil seal houseing (6 bolt crank) and then you can use the 711 rear rubber seal instead of the cork (which eventually leaks)

[elancoupe]

Fit the 711 rear oil seal houseing (6 bolt crank) and then you can use the 711 rear rubber seal instead of the cork (which eventually leaks)

Can someone point me to a source for these rubber end seals?

[bcmc33]

Fit the 711 rear oil seal houseing (6 bolt crank) and then you can use the 711 rear rubber seal instead of the cork (which eventually leaks)

Can someone point me to a source for these rubber end seals?

QED and Burton.

[elancoupe]

Thanks Brian.

Does this look like the correct item? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Competition-S ... 2565ed9933

There seems to be quite a variety of kits on Ebay, not sure which is best.

[bcmc33]

Thanks Brian.

Does this look like the correct item? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Competition-S ... 2565ed9933

There seems to be quite a variety of kits on Ebay, not sure which is best.

Those are the bits you need.

[kstrutt11]

I found when fitting it with the engine still in the vehicle glueing it all to block was about the only way to get it in anyway!