Pre-engaged starter fittment

[handi_andi]

Hello all
I have just taken delivery of a pre-engaged starter from Ratsport along with a couple of alloy wing mirrors that feel like they are filled with helium

I was just wondering if there is anything I need to be aware of before I pull out the old inertia unit and install the new one?

Thanks

Andrew

[john.p.clegg]

Andi
Does the starter have a "blob" on the side.....solenoid.......will it make it a tight fit?

John

[alan71]

If you are lazy like me the easiest way to connect it is to move the starter cable to the same terminal on the solenoid as the battery and fit a new cable to operate the starter. You could extend the old cable which operated the solenoid or, as I did, connect it to the now unused terminal.
This avoids disturbing the original wiring, running new cables to the battery etc.
Also I would fit a rubber boot to the main cable on the starter as it is now permanently 12V.

Alan.

[peterako]

Hi Andrew,

Got a high torque started from Ratsport late last year and installed it recently.

Had to remove, re-drill and rotate the starter mounting plate in order to get it to fit (Elan +2) between the chassis and the engine....

Peter '73 +2S 130/5

[cliveyboy]

There are two different types of starter motor commonly available for the Twincam.
One to fit Lotus and the other to fit Fords
I believe its because the sumps differ slightly

Cliveyboy

[alaric]

On the wiring front, bear in mind that if you move the starter motor lead to the unswitched side of the bulkhead mounted solenoid, then it's unfused and connected permanently to the battery. If that cable frays and shorts out, it'll make a lot of sparks and could be terminal for the car; it's unfused and capable of carrying a lot of current.

If, instead of moving the starter motor lead on the bulkhead solenoid, you simply connect the solenoid input on the new starter motor to that cable at the starter motor, the whole cable will be disconnected from the battery except when turning the starter motor. You also don't have to run an extra wire.

You then only have one lead in the car that's not fused, and it's not in motion due to the movement of the engine.

The latter is how I'm wiring up my own car. I'm taking the view that since the original solenoid is there I may as well use it, and it'll be safer.

Sean.

[handi_andi]

Thanks people. Well it has gone in and the engine spun over on test although didn't fire up, although thats not unusual for mine and will investigate that tomorrow morning.

It was a very tight fit and might be rubbing now, it is difficult to see. The only way I could get it in place was to get the bottom bolt in, align it as best i could and then put the top bolt in and progressively tighten both, until the gearbox suddenly sprang back towards the starter as everything fitted very snugly into place.

Interestingly enough, it was supplied with a link between the internal solenoid and the battery feed, thus theoretically I didn't need to alter toriginal wiring at all. I say theoretically as the old cable rned out to be about 3inches too short, hence I no longer have a positive jump lead as a length of it got used to make a new lead up.

So here is hoping it solves my starting problems I have been having, although have to admit was a little concerned by the sounds when i did turn car over. Will investigate more in the morning in the daylight.

Thanks everyone

Andrew

[peterako]

Hi Andrew,

Make sure that the run in for the starter gear is correct (that the flywheel run in is correct...).

Mine wasn't an the high torque started chewed it up...noisely!

Peter

[handi_andi]

Peter
Thanks, but sorry to sound dumb, but what's the run in?
Andrew

[john.p.clegg]

Andrew
There is a chamfer on the starter ring teeth to help the pinion engage...

John

[alan71]

Sean,
That?s a good point about the cable to the starter being permanently connected to the battery. I thought about doing it that way but then you have to link the 2 terminals on the starter together. I was advised against this because it can cause the starter to be slow to disengage. I know people do wire it that way, maybe it depends on the type of starter you are using? I never tried it myself so I can?t say.

When I changed the starter I just left the ring gear. Which now engages on the other side, presumably without any chamfer. I?m hoping because it?s pre-engaged the ring gear will have a much easier life. If not I?ll have to take the engine out anyway.

Alan.

[handi_andi]

Well my starter is turning the engine over just fine. However, as usual, she has been stood a week so I am not getting a proper spark at the plugs and have no idea why. Nothing has been changed since she last ran except for the starter.

I am to admit to being baffled as to why when she is run everyday she is fine, but leave her a few days and all the spark is gone despite a fully charged battery. Have checked the voltage at all the incoming feeds to the coil and everything is correct. Have checked the resistance across the positive terminal and the negative terminal on the coil and am getting 3.5ohms and between the positive and the HT output am getting about 8kohms, all of which as far as I can see are what they should be. THe points are operating fine without any leak to earth. Have changed the coil put for a spare one and makes no difference. Have also checked the HT leads are well pushed onto their fitments.

Was the same story before when the Ignitor was fitted and the garage blamed it saying it was going to open circuit and replaced it with points and the engine ran fine, but now back to the same position.

When I do g a spark it is weak and intermittent. I am suspecting the coil, although I have changed it for a spare one. Anyone got any bright thoughts? The distributor is turning round ok when I hand cranked it, could it be slipping or something maybe? Haven't had time yet to spin the engine up without the distributor cap on which would eliminate that particular idea. Am completely at a loss.

Any thoughts most welcome, am totally baffled.

Andrew

[alaric]

That's an interesting problem. I think you're saying that after the power is disconnected by the remote solenoid, the gear of the starter motor remains engaged with the flywheel gear for longer than it should although it's not being driven. I would imagine a separate switch would be required to avoid this, as I guess it's caused by the decay rate of the volts in the high current lead.

I'll have to experiment - I still don't like the idea of the wandering lead unfused - I've had one short out before and it's not pleasant.

All the best.

Sean.

[alan71]

Sean,
I can understand your concern about the live lead, I was a bit worried myself so I used some extra insulation.
How about this for an idea, if you use a ballast resistor type solenoid but don?t have a ballast resistor (or low voltage coil) you will have a spare connection, so you could switch both feeds to the new starter independently.
Just a thought, I accept no responsibility if your car goes up in flames!

Alan.

[alan71]

Andrew,
I had similar ignition problems a while ago, after trying everything I found the centre contact in the distributor cap was very high resistance. Also it was a lighter colour and looked porous in texture.

Alan.