Identifying a cylinder head !

PostPost by: tedmagnum » Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:28 pm

Hi all.

Can anyone do me a favour and confirm that this cylinder head is actually off an Elan+2 and what years it will fit etc ?

The stamps on the head are:

WM 9403 , 14-10, L1022, A26E-311


It is on Ebay but the forum wont let me put the link in as im a new user :(

Ebay item number is: 120128124770

You can copy that into ebays search bar and it will come up.


Thank you very much in advance

Ted

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PostPost by: types26/36 » Sun Jun 03, 2007 4:50 pm

I think those numbers are casting numbers and wont really help to I.D. the head but it will fit a +2 or any other T.C. engine. Its a weber/delloto head and the colour and style of the cam cover would indicate its an S.E. engine.(special equipment) 115 hp
What cams it has is anybody's guess, Lotus used a number of rings to I.D. the cams but without inspection it could have anything.
The head thickness needs measuring and a check on what size valves would give a better idea of what it is.
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PostPost by: kenny » Sun Jun 03, 2007 5:02 pm

I concur with the above. If I were to buy another head the thickness would be critical and also the valve shim thickness would dictate what price I'd pay.........all down to experience :(

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PostPost by: tedmagnum » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:00 pm

kenny wrote:I concur with the above. If I were to buy another head the thickness would be critical and also the valve shim thickness would dictate what price I'd pay.........all down to experience :(

Kenny


May I ask why the thickness and valve shim thickness is important ??

Thanks, ed
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:13 pm

tedmagnum wrote:
kenny wrote:I May I ask why the thickness and valve shim thickness is important ??


Most heads are now about 30 years old and have had work on them, if the head has been overskimed it upsets not only the compression but effects things like valve timing due to the head sitting lower on the block. Lotus give specs in the manual but as with most things some sort of repair can be made.
The thickness of the shims would indicate how deep into the head the valves are sitting and if seats and guides need to be replaced, the tolerances on the valve gear is quite critical.
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PostPost by: kenny » Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:04 am

Ed, Brian answered for me there thanks Brian.
The head of the engine I've just rebuilt was sold to me as very good, I took the chap at his word and didn't think there'd be a problem.
I checked the clearances as you do before I fitted engine to car and clearances were tight, so I mic's up a couple of shims which are .060 to .070" which is not good for the health of the engine.
This started a "chain reaction" . The valve stems had also been spun to try to eek out clearance over the years and in the end the rest of the head was just as tired as its wafer thin shims suggested.
The job to bring the head back to spec. included valves, seats, guides cam bearings a .008" skim and new .120" shims to bring the head back to a near new and standard spec, plus a couple of cam cap dowels and studs were knackered.I was lucky to be able to strip and reassemble to save costs but parts were expensive and there was a charge for the guides and seat fitting.

The head on Ebay is probably better than the dog I acquired and if it were my head I'd personally put these two measurements down as if things check out you will certainly get a higher price than just selling "as is".


Good luck with the sale,
Cheers,
Kenny
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PostPost by: c.d.s. » Mon Jun 04, 2007 6:07 am

Ted,

It looks like the sprockets are not bolted to the camshafts so you should ask him to remove both to see if there are any grooves on the revealed ends. Albeit the cams could have been reground, so in the end who knows?



Best Regards

Carl
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:22 am

From the photos it does not look to bad a casting

1. No significant corrosion in the water gallery holes
2. Not so thin that the casting numbers have been machined
3. Does not look to soft as no recession of head bolts into head visible (though hard to be sure from the photos)
4. No sign of signficant damage or cracks ( but you cant really tell until you pressure test a head)

Almost all second hand heads need new valve guides and most need new seats as well but until you measure up the head in detail you dont know. I always assume both if I cant measure the head and factor that into the price.

Unfortunately in Australia heads are hard to come by and I end up buying what ever I come across at a reasonable price.

regards
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PostPost by: tedmagnum » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:49 am

Well chaps,

May I ask what you would value it at ?

I saw one go on Ebay for ?700 about 3 months ago and it was in worse condition.

Regards

Ted
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PostPost by: tedmagnum » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:51 am

c.d.s. wrote:Ted,

It looks like the sprockets are not bolted to the camshafts so you should ask him to remove both to see if there are any grooves on the revealed ends. Albeit the cams could have been reground, so in the end who knows?



Best Regards

Carl


The description says that the bolts are missing. The cam gears have 3 holes in them and the camshaft has a locating dowel. They sit on nicely.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Jun 04, 2007 11:13 am

Prices on Ebay seem to be around 500 pounds for a bare weber head in unknown but generally assumed poor condition up to around 1200 pounds for a restored head. Though its always hard to tell if the "restoration" was more than a clean and paint job.

Extras such as cams and / or cam cover and new valves and springs in a restored head can add to those numbers by 100 to 200 pounds.

In the end its what the winning bid is and what the seller ends up accepting that sets the market price on any individual head, what I think a head is worth does not really matter!

cheers
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