Lotus Elan

Waterpump

PostPost by: Jens » Sat Apr 02, 2005 11:26 pm

Hi!

I seem to have a leaking waterpump in my Elan and am wondering if it is nescessary to remove the entire cylinderhead and the sump in order to replace the worn parts. Is there any other way of fixing the problem? I suppose it is the graphite gasket that has worn out and lets the water leak out through the lille hole underneath the pump.

Any step-by-step guidance would be very much appreciated.

Thanks!

//Jens
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My one problem is that distance keeps me from my Elan. (36/5395)
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:57 am

Jens

If you have a steady stream of water out the drain hole of the pump then only a matter of time unitl the bearing fails so your wise to start planning the replacement. The leakage could be due to the carbon seal having worn or the rubber bellows having developed a leak or the bearing having worn causing the the seal to have problems due to misalignment. If the water pump pulley has freeplay with the belt rmoved then the bearing is worn and failing.

For replacement approach you have 3 choices.

1. Remove the head before pulling the front cover
2. Remove the sump before pulling the front cover
3. Remove both before pulling the front cover

These days I tend to pull the engine and use the third approach but in the past I have done the first 2 as well. They all work and can be done though probably just removing the sump and leaving the head in place is the hardest to get all the seals in place when reassembling. Recentring the front cover oil seal on the crank shaft is difficult unless you have both the head and sump off. If your chassis cross member under the engine is not removable then you need to pull the engine to remove the sump also.

When rebuilding the pump you need to ensure you get the right crush height on the seal to get it to seat properly. The Elan Factory here in Australia also pressure tests the front cover pump assembly to ensure it is right before putting it back on the block as its a hassle to discover it leaks after a rebuild and having to strip it again.

Rohan
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PostPost by: elansprint71 » Sun Apr 03, 2005 9:41 am

I used Rohan's first option: remove head first; I looked at the possibility of not removing either head or sump, as there are folks who have done this, however, it is bad enough getting the sealing right even when you remove the head.
I fitted a Burton Power capsule water pump, so hopefully it will be easy next time (and there will be a next time!).

Cheers,
Pete
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PostPost by: Jens » Sun Apr 03, 2005 4:29 pm

What is the advantage of the Burton Pump? In what way does it differ from the original one? And why is it easier to replace the pump the next time with a Burton? Sounds like an ok idea...

//Jens
"Make the suspension adjustable and they will adjust it wrong - look at what they can do to a Weber carburetor in just a few moments of stupidity with a screwdriver..." (CABC)

My one problem is that distance keeps me from my Elan. (36/5395)
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PostPost by: steveww » Sun Apr 03, 2005 6:57 pm

When I did the one on my Elan I pulled the head and the sump but my Elan does have a removable cross member so it was quite easy. Now I wish I had spent the extra cash and bought the Burton capsule pump.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Mon Apr 04, 2005 3:18 pm

Jens, the Burton pump (front cover) has a removable cartridge for the water pump and the front cover stays in place.
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PostPost by: prloz » Wed Apr 06, 2005 9:09 am

Hi all,
Can the stock front cover be machined to accept the Bean, Burton,
etc. capsule water pump; or would I need to purchase a new 'custom'
cover ?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Peter.
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PostPost by: steveww » Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:08 pm

You need to buy the whole kit from Burton, front cover, pump capsule etc......
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PostPost by: prloz » Wed Apr 06, 2005 1:37 pm

Thanks Steve,
Regards,
Peter.
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PostPost by: pereirac » Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:49 pm

The kit is expensive but there again so is replacing the waterpump.

Peter Day (of Daytune) fame did mine years ago by lifting the head and just dropping the sump as much as it would go - I don't have a removable cross member as I have a standard Lotus chassis
Carl

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:16 am

You can modify the standard front cover to accept a cartridge pump unit. I have 2 on my Elan and Plus 2 this way. These cartridges were designed to fit a bored out standard housing. The biggest problem with this mod is getting a good sealing area on the original housing especilly if it has signficant corrosion.

The Elan Factory used to do this mod in Australia but no longer does and offers a complete new cartridge front pmp unit and front cover due to the problem of machining the standard and by now often corroded front covers

Dont know the details of the Burton design and it may be possible to fit it to a standard bored out housing or it may not be easily done and not worth the effort compared to the cost of the new matching front cover

Rohan
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PostPost by: rickf » Thu Apr 07, 2005 8:04 pm

If I had to do it over, I'd pull the engine and work on it on a stand or bench. It probably wouldn't take any longer and would be a lot less trouble.
Cheers,<br>Rick<br>1972 Elan +2
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PostPost by: elanman3 » Tue Apr 12, 2005 2:26 am

Hi,

The water pump is the next job to be done on my +2 and this Burton pump sounds OK, does anyone have a web address for them?

Colin
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Apr 12, 2005 6:36 am

<a href='http://www.burtonpower.co.uk' target='_blank'>http://www.burtonpower.co.uk</a>
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PostPost by: arcangel » Thu Apr 14, 2005 4:56 am

I thought my experience with the installation of the Burton water pump conversion kit may be of some interest to anyone considering ordering the same. So far it's been an exercise in frustration fitting it to my Plus 2. The problems so far have all been with the timing chest cover. The one sent to me was approximately 0.5 inch too tall. Didn't find this out till after I had installed it. Dilema, send it back to the U.K. or get it machined locally here in San Diego. I chose the latter. Got the cover back, second installation. It now protrudes above the block by about 2 mm. Back to the machine shop once again, this time to the exact height of the new back plate. Installation number three, both the backing plate and timing chest cover are flush with the block. I'm thinking home free. Lay the head on, and try to install the timing chain sprocket. I can't get the bolt in. Pull the head off again, chase out the threads, install the sprocket in the head and lay the head back on again. This time there is a 2 mm gap between the head and the top of the timing chest cover. Looking down into the chest cavity I see that there is unsufficient clearance between the sprocket and the housing for the water pump module. The chain is jammed between the two of them. This is where my Plus 2 currently sits. Some time next week, I plan to pull the cover off again and grind off enough of the inner housing to get sufficient clearance for the timing chain. Despite my current problems, I would order another kit from Burtons. They are well made and impressive as Hell to look at. I would however measure or compare dimensions with a stock cover before installing it.
Joji Tokumoto, 72 Plus 2/69 Elan
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