things to do with the engine out

PostPost by: tdafforn » Wed Nov 22, 2006 11:44 am

I am planning on taking the engine out of my +2 in the next few weeks..
Anyone have any ideas of jobs that I should do on the car that are made easier by the lack of engine?
Cheers
tim
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed Nov 22, 2006 12:27 pm

tdafforn wrote:Anyone have any ideas of jobs that I should do on the car that are made easier by the lack of engine?


Replace the front/rear gearbox seals
Check and service or replace the u.joints on the propshaft
Clean and repaint the engine compartment
check/replace the steering rack coupling
Seal any holes in bulkhead or replace grommits
Check chassis around engine mounting points for stress cracks

.....and thats just off the top of my head.
Brian
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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Wed Nov 22, 2006 1:54 pm

All of the above are on my list, plus, rewire the engine compartment, trace and correct the headlight vacuum system leak. If you want to replace brake lines or the handbrake cable, now is a great time.
Andrew Bodge
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I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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PostPost by: Old English White » Wed Nov 22, 2006 8:00 pm

... All of the above are on the list, plus ... , if thinking about a new sport exhaust manifold put a heat shield on the bulkhead , if really big bore , modify chassis ... and have a close look to the gearbox mounting plate and rubber .
Christian.
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PostPost by: frearther » Wed Nov 22, 2006 8:29 pm

And while you're at it, get a new chassis, install a roll cage, add 6" fender flares, and get a humongous set of chrome wheels, preferably with tires that have an aspect ration somewhere around 10%? :twisted:
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PostPost by: freddy22112211 » Thu Nov 23, 2006 3:34 pm

Repair the burnt glass fibre near the exhaust manifold like I did.
(And as mentioned above, perhaps a heat shield as well).
(Replace flexible hydraulic clutch pipe on LHD cars).
Treat any rust on crossmember (and elsewhere).
Gordon
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PostPost by: M100 » Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:11 pm

freddy22112211 wrote:Replace flexible hydraulic clutch pipe


Replace the clutch slave cylinder with a coaxial one, dump the plastic pipe and put the bleed nipple in a much more accessible place - this might be my winter project if I get any time!
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Thu Nov 23, 2006 4:49 pm

"put a heat shield on the bulkhead"

I put mine on the frame near the exhaust manifold. Made a big difference in the temperature of my feet because I had previously installed headers. Do you have an aluminium Bakelite baking sheet? Is it discolored from years of baking? This is the perfect time to buy a new one, then take the old one and cut it to fit as a shield on the frame. It's nothing but two sheets of aluminium seperated by an air space, but it really makes a difference. And the discoloration makes no difference because once the engine is installed, you will not be able to see it at all from above. Besides, after a few hundred miles near the manifold, it will discolor further. Screw it into the frame with self tapping screws. This modification will be far easier to perform with the engine out.
Frank Howard
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PostPost by: frearther » Thu Nov 23, 2006 6:43 pm

Martin,
Was the coaxial slave cylinder worth the effort and expense? Since my engine rebuild has taken on a new dimension in duration, I was thinking of adding one of these. I'd be intersted in your experience.
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PostPost by: tower of strength » Thu Nov 23, 2006 11:01 pm

Check and change the steering U/J, not a nice job with the engine in if i remember correctly!!

regards

Mark
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PostPost by: M100 » Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:09 am

Art,

No experience to pass on so far! just a "osmosis approach" feeding off what I've read and heard from others that have done a similar mod. I acquired a slave cylinder a couple of years ago from AP that I think will be suitable but lacking a spare gearbox to do any detailed measurements and preliminary engineering with It will have to wait until the box is on the floor to see if it fits ok. I know I'll need to machine a mounting plate to bolt onto the input seal cover but just might end up making a complete new input shaft cover instead.

Due to a rather long holiday my car was laid up a couple of months early this year at the end of August, fortunately I managed to just find the time to have it MOT'd and laid up properly before winter set in but since coming back I've been rushed off my feet and also had a few problems with my everyday Lotus which desperately needs attention before I can even consider ripping the Elan apart.
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PostPost by: Dave-M » Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:35 am

Martin, Wondered where you had gone.
I am not far from you and can lend you a box if you wish, no particular rush for it to come back.
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Dave
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PostPost by: Dave-M » Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:26 am

Martin.
You can buy an adaptor from Burtons (just checked) it fits the 2000E box, it,s ?42.50 They also do all the other bits required.
Might save you from trying to re-invent the wheel
Regards
Dave
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:20 pm

I'm probably being thick, but what is the advantage of a coaxial slave cylinder. Does it out weigh the need to split the engine/gearbox to get to it if it malfunctions?
Tim
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PostPost by: frearther » Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:40 pm

Tim,
My thinking is that it gets the slave cylinder out of the weather and eliminates the diddly little fork/retainer/throwout bearing assembly that can so easily become disassembled. However, what just occirred to me is the question of bleeding. I wonder if the engine has to come out for that simple procedure. Can anyone enlighten me?
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