Winter engine rebuild time
19 posts
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hi All,
Today is officially the start of the winter engine rebuild (replacing the lotus bottom end with a 711m block)..
I haven't done an engine change before, so its new territory!
Anyone have any hints/tips?
(I have the twincam book)
Cheers
tim
Today is officially the start of the winter engine rebuild (replacing the lotus bottom end with a 711m block)..
I haven't done an engine change before, so its new territory!
Anyone have any hints/tips?
(I have the twincam book)
Cheers
tim
-
tdafforn - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 744
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Hi Tim
Are you going to get some answers to this question!
The numerous experts will give you all the good oil but I can give you one rather obvious tip I discovered for myself.
As you intend pulling the head, do it while the engine is still in the car.
Access to so many things is hugely improved if you do. Makes life a lot easier.
Winter...?? Summer's just starting here.
Ralph
71 Sprint.
Are you going to get some answers to this question!
The numerous experts will give you all the good oil but I can give you one rather obvious tip I discovered for myself.
As you intend pulling the head, do it while the engine is still in the car.
Access to so many things is hugely improved if you do. Makes life a lot easier.
Winter...?? Summer's just starting here.
Ralph
71 Sprint.
- reb53
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 757
- Joined: 09 Apr 2005
Tim
If you are going to pull the engine out,take the head off after it's out unless you like having back ache.....
It's so much easier to work on on the bench....
John
If you are going to pull the engine out,take the head off after it's out unless you like having back ache.....
It's so much easier to work on on the bench....
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4521
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Hi Tim,
I am in the early stages of a winter rebuild. I removed the engine complete with transmission and without removing the head first. Once the carburetors and manifold are off, there is no particular problem getting to the remaining bits, and I agree that removing the head with the engine in the car is a backbreaker.
I forgot to protect the front edge of the engine bay and picked up a few small nicks. Use some heavy cardboard or dense foam. Also, you can't help the last of the trans. oil spilling out of the tailshaft housing, so put down something to protect the floor.
I bought an inexpensive universal-type engine stand that attaches at the bellhousing bolt positions. It does limit access to the rear of the engine but is otherwise very satisfactory so far. The engine is in the stand and the car is under its cover outside, awaiting further work once the engine is out of the way. I have my eye on a workbench for the back of the garage, but have to get the garage plastered and painted first, so the stand is a better option at the moment. I'll transfer the head to the basement workshop for disassembly, and the bottom end is destined for a machine shop.
I'm using the Miles Wilkins book as my primary source, with reference to the Brian Buckland book, the Dave Bean catalog, and the Lotus workshop manual as needed.
Good luck and enjoy the process.
I am in the early stages of a winter rebuild. I removed the engine complete with transmission and without removing the head first. Once the carburetors and manifold are off, there is no particular problem getting to the remaining bits, and I agree that removing the head with the engine in the car is a backbreaker.
I forgot to protect the front edge of the engine bay and picked up a few small nicks. Use some heavy cardboard or dense foam. Also, you can't help the last of the trans. oil spilling out of the tailshaft housing, so put down something to protect the floor.
I bought an inexpensive universal-type engine stand that attaches at the bellhousing bolt positions. It does limit access to the rear of the engine but is otherwise very satisfactory so far. The engine is in the stand and the car is under its cover outside, awaiting further work once the engine is out of the way. I have my eye on a workbench for the back of the garage, but have to get the garage plastered and painted first, so the stand is a better option at the moment. I'll transfer the head to the basement workshop for disassembly, and the bottom end is destined for a machine shop.
I'm using the Miles Wilkins book as my primary source, with reference to the Brian Buckland book, the Dave Bean catalog, and the Lotus workshop manual as needed.
Good luck and enjoy the process.
Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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RotoFlexible - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 624
- Joined: 01 Sep 2005
"I bought an inexpensive universal-type engine stand that attaches at the bellhousing bolt positions. It does limit access to the rear of the engine..."
Tim,
An engine stand will attach to the engine mount bolt holes on the side of the block. This limits access to the engine mount holes, however this is one part of the motor that should never need servicing.
I forgot to drain the transmission before I pulled it. Big mistake.
Do not be tempted to sit on the the nose of the car while wrestling the engine in or out. There is not much support there as I found out the hard way.
Tim,
An engine stand will attach to the engine mount bolt holes on the side of the block. This limits access to the engine mount holes, however this is one part of the motor that should never need servicing.
I forgot to drain the transmission before I pulled it. Big mistake.
Do not be tempted to sit on the the nose of the car while wrestling the engine in or out. There is not much support there as I found out the hard way.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 919
- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
Hi,
I carried out a engine rebuild last winter.
I got a cheap engine stand off the internet and found that the engine, once on the stand, would fit above the bonnet with the stand legs under the car.
Certainly with the sump off there was quite a bit of clearence. This allowed me to put the car back in the garage whilst I was not working on the engine.
Dave
I carried out a engine rebuild last winter.
I got a cheap engine stand off the internet and found that the engine, once on the stand, would fit above the bonnet with the stand legs under the car.
Certainly with the sump off there was quite a bit of clearence. This allowed me to put the car back in the garage whilst I was not working on the engine.
Dave
- carrierdave
- Third Gear
- Posts: 326
- Joined: 23 Sep 2004
Hi all,
My plan had been.
1) but 711m block (done)
2) dissasemble 711m block (Done on a workmate in one evening)
3) Remove the block and head from the elan
4) sell the block complete with crank, rods and pistons (anyone interested?)
5) use the proceeds to help pay for 711m conversion by third party engineering shop
6) reunite with head (was rebuilt 10K miles ago)
7) put back in lotus
drive into the sunset.
I don't want to wait another season to do this as the crankcase pressure is pretty excessive at the mo.
Only other thing I need to know is what to rescue from the original lotus/ford block to use in the 711m block
Cheers
tim
My plan had been.
1) but 711m block (done)
2) dissasemble 711m block (Done on a workmate in one evening)
3) Remove the block and head from the elan
4) sell the block complete with crank, rods and pistons (anyone interested?)
5) use the proceeds to help pay for 711m conversion by third party engineering shop
6) reunite with head (was rebuilt 10K miles ago)
7) put back in lotus
drive into the sunset.
I don't want to wait another season to do this as the crankcase pressure is pretty excessive at the mo.
Only other thing I need to know is what to rescue from the original lotus/ford block to use in the 711m block
Cheers
tim
-
tdafforn - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 744
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Tim, One thing to note is that the 711m block is wider between the engine mounts than the Lotus "L" block. I think the difference is 0.25". You will have to reduce the four spacers by this amount to give the engine mounting rubbers a chance. Perhaps someone with a little more knowledge can confirm the 0.25" dimension.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
- Dave-M
- Second Gear
- Posts: 175
- Joined: 11 Jun 2005
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