Engine Mount Spacers - 1600 Block

[ElliottN]

Does anyone know the correct length of the spacers for mounting the exhaust side engine mount on a 1600 block?

Am renewing the mounts on my 1600 block (first time for me) and I can't line up the mount and chassis points with the new mounts. Looks like about 1/4" difference overall - too wide. Ah ha - I have standard 1 1/8" spacers, but the 1600 block is wider than the 1500 so I need shorter spacers.

OK - I can jack the engine over and get them to line up but I'd rather machine the spacers down than put horizontal stress on the mounts.

Anyone know the correct length?

thanks.

[john.p.clegg]

Elliot
Mine are 3/4" or 15mm approx
John

[types26/36]

12mm for the spacers also works but I dont think its critical to a couple of mms

[cbguerrajr]

I'm also changing a motor mount (or trying to) on the carburator side. While trying to jack up the engine to change the oil pump, I noticed that the motor mount had failed. I'm still struggling losening the two bolts & nuts, they insist on turning together.
Once the mount and exhaust pipe are off, what is the ideal jacking point to raise the engine? No the oil pan, I assume.
Also, should both mounts be off or can the engine be rotated clockwise by raising the oil pump side alone?
Thanks for any advice
Carlos

[john.p.clegg]

Carlos
When I do it,I support the sump with a piece of plywood to spread the load,undo the carb side engine mount bolts and jack the sump just enough for the pump to clear the chassis,leaving the exhaust side untouched......
John

[twincamman]

I use a hockey puck on the jack mount to ease the lift on the suspension member when lifting the car ------I dont know about lifting on the motor s pan though -----ed

[ElliottN]

Carlos.

What I do is place a piece of timber (in my case about 200 x 100 x 50 mm) between the jack and the sump and lift until I just take the weight off the engine mounts. Then I usually pack up under this with timber - so I am not relying on the jack to hold the engine up (while my 30 minute job becomes 4 hours).

To change the inlet side mount I remove the starter - makes access much easier. I can access both the nuts and bolts which lock the mount to the chassis so can get a wrench on the bolt while I undo the nut if required.

You can work with one mount off for something like changing the oil pump but don't overdo the amount of jacking up/down or you may damage the mount that is still installed. I wouldn't worry about vertical movement (on the free side) of 20mm either way but would be cautious if you need much more - just don't want to prematurely start to delaminate the rubber from the plates in the mount that is still on.

Good luck.

[rgh0]

I use socket head bolts to secure the mount to the chassis. Put the socket head to the rear and the nut on the front. It is then easy to get an Allen key onto the socket head to hold the bolt still while you turn the nut on the front with a ratchet socket or ring spanner.


The shape of the bracket with its curves to the rear make it much easier to use an allen key than a conventional hex head and spanner

I also ream out the holes in the mount to increase bolt clearance as it makes fitting the bolts through the mount and chassis much easier. Line up one hole fit the bolt then jack the engine up or down slightly until the second bolt hole lines up

regards
Rohan

[john.p.clegg]

OK,OK,OK,I'll tell you what I've done,
What I did was source two new bolts (you can use the old ones) and tacked a piece of 1/4" rod across the heads (actually I drilled the flats,inserted the rod then welded the two together at the right spacing) and this makes for easy-peasey fitting and tightening of the mounting bolts..........

John

P.S. I haven't patented this so feel free to copy.....