Temperature Compensators

[miked]

Any feed back would be appreciated about the heading. I went to great lengths to set the compensators up via various web site info' using hot water icecream tubs and a temp gauge. I have variations in tickover from time to time and always wonder if these are giving me the problems. One of the first pieces of advice I received but ignored was to screw them up so they stopped shut and that they were just finite mixture adjustment for USA market under bonet temperature mixture adjustment.
I am going to do a tune service, carb check, new plugs and timing etc and thought about it again. Anyone got any advice as to keep them and recheck or just screw them up so they remain closed. They tend to persih the little seals that fit around them.

thanks Mike

[khamai]

Mike,

There's a brief paragraph on this topic in the Esprit Tech section on the GGLC website.

<a href='http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/907-desmog/DSMOG907.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/907-desmog/DSMOG907.htm</a>

You'll have to scroll down to near the end of the article. I don't know that it will help, but there's some background stuff there.

Kiyoshi

[steveww]

An option is to dump the Strombergs and fit SU HIF44 instead. More reliable carb with much better parts availability and they flow better giving more HP. I plan on giving this a go with my S4.

[miked]

Kiyoshi & Steve,
thank for replies

I have a looked at the article but am more interested in the reason behind doing away with compensators (do they really matter). I have checked mine again and they appear to be ok. They are not opeing under normal driving conditions.

Re the SU's. If i get fed up enough with the Strombergs, maybe. I would be bothered about how they looked.

I have further problems with mixture settings!

One thing I have discovered is that I am still running quite rich. I have checked the adjustable needle positions. They are meant to have three full turns from top to the bottom before the come off the threads. Mine are at the bottom of the threads and I am still too rich. Has anybody got any advice on how I can achieve further weakening. Am I missing something fundamental. Any suggestions

Carbs are standard with no bypass, simplest for of CD175's, I believe. Surley you guys across the water in the USA with all those Strombergs must have it sussed!


Thanks Mike




thank Mike

[steveww]

To set up the Strombergs.

Ensure the needle is flush with the valve.
Wind the just all the way up to be flush with the bridge then back off 3 turns. This gives a good starting point. Using the tail of a vernier measure the jet height on each carb and equal them out.
Fire her up and get up to running temp. Balence the butterflies. Adjust the mixture for about 4% - 5% CO ensure that you turn the jet equal ammounts on each carb. Go back and check the butterfly balence, check the CO again - round and round as many time as is required. When it is looking good go back and vernier the jet height again and tweek as required if they were a long way off go round the loop again.

If they will not tune up then things are probably worn out. Get new needles and jets as a minimum.

Happy for you to contact me off list for more info.

[Rob_LaMoreaux]

When is it too Rich? All the time, on acceleration, at idle only, etc.?

You can get different needles to fix some problems.
Too high of float level will richen the mixture.
Idle only too rich can be compensated for with the idle screw.

I have my temp compensators set to never open to eliminate that variable, especially since it improves emmissions not driveability.

You can also go to a lighter spring to lean out the mixture overall.

If it is too rich on acceleration only then you need thinner damper oil.

Rob

[miked]

Rob and Steve Thanks for replies. Steve I would like a chat off line (been away), will email you.

Bear with me on this, not done much on mixture.

I have used colour tune on my other cars (2 plus two's). I tried to set up the S4 with these when i first put her on the road and was still trying to get the colour right to weaken. Hence the description is that the mixtire is rich on IDLE. On reving the colour tune look right. I ned to see what happen on sudden movevemnt re the damper oil. I have since been told that colour tune is not the thing to do (by a carb guy). All over the place apparently?

The plugs show quite black and when I wipe there is dark brown undernaeth and quite haevy deposit. I use optimax and STP octane booster.

I have aquired a CO meter from a mate and am ready to have another go. I have the tops off and as stated before found that I had adjusted my needles right off the litle screw to lower them. I will pull the carbs off and check my float levels. The jets and needle are new.

I will sort the temp' compensators to stay closed.
Re: the adjsumet screw, this is fully closed.



thanks Mike