Engine hot off the dyno!
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Top one is what I bought for about half from a speed shop; I have a lathe/mill so was able to modify the bung to fit my BD cam cover.
Second and third are types that RD sells; middle photo is their billet type that uses the pins in the cam cover, lower one is likely the same as the one Bean sells. These have had the bung already modified, worth the price if you can't machine it yourself.
Second and third are types that RD sells; middle photo is their billet type that uses the pins in the cam cover, lower one is likely the same as the one Bean sells. These have had the bung already modified, worth the price if you can't machine it yourself.
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elangtv2000 - Third Gear
- Posts: 226
- Joined: 07 Jun 2006
hello again, thanks for all the info, i have now ordered one of the alloy caps. could anyone give an opinion as to what 2 pack epoxy i would best use to fix the collar into the cam cover, what is the best alloy to alloy adhesive, i do not want to risk this collar working loose. thanks.
- J J DIKKE
- First Gear
- Posts: 47
- Joined: 27 May 2018
No experience in this particular application, but I've been pleasantly surprised by JB weld in other applications. Usually the general rule with epoxies is that the faster they cure, the more brittle they are- but JB Weld seems to defy that to a certain extent, possibly due to its composite nature. People joke about the stuff, making it out to be one of the essential elements of 'redneck repair,' but in suitable applications it's great!
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
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The Veg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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imho epoxy temperature resistance (JBweld and the like) may be stretched above 100°C, so if the glue is only there to seal an otherwise suitably tight mechanichal hold that might be acceptable (making sure chips of hard epoxy can't eventually find a route into the head) - or better a few tacks of TIG welding should do the trick... if TIG is difficult to get, I would add some fasteners (screws, pins...) to hold the inside part mechanically (in addition to a light glueing for seal if required for poor fit correction... )
S4SE 36/8198
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1998
- Joined: 02 Sep 2013
The Veg wrote:No experience in this particular application, but I've been pleasantly surprised by JB weld in other applications. Usually the general rule with epoxies is that the faster they cure, the more brittle they are- but JB Weld seems to defy that to a certain extent, possibly due to its composite nature. People joke about the stuff, making it out to be one of the essential elements of 'redneck repair,' but in suitable applications it's great!
Wondered about that. Note JB Weld comes in several formulations with different cure times. I used the 24 hour cure time version for my oil cap install, so all good on the brittle deal. With care you don’t have to remove the cam cover. No oil leakage over the bell housing now, so recommend this cap.
Read it on Wikipedia so it must be OK ....
J-B Weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500 °F (260 °C), and the maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 °F (316 °C) for 10 minutes.
YMMV
Stu
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1942
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
well, in doubt you can always try it on a sample and make up your mind about this specific repair... I won't through you the first stone, I've used epoxy glue on an engine in the past - but iirc it was always somewhere where the falling bits would tend to go out of the engine (e.g. to reseal a leaky exhaust manifold gasket...)
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nmauduit - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1998
- Joined: 02 Sep 2013
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