Head removal & replacement for dummies. What to avoid.

[rgh0]

Hello, removal of head is not at all staightforward.In fact, the only right way is to remove engine; Why? Just because it is impossible to avoid oil leakage if you try to re install the front cover in situ. cylinder head, for this reason is the worst job on a baby Elan! You can read the "yellow bible" to confirm! Please, excuse my bad english, i am french!

Hi Pierre

I agree if you are removing the front cover as well as the head, that its best to pull the engine for ease of access so that assembly can be done well. However if you are just removing the head itself then it can be done in the car quite easily.

cheers
Rohan

[pierrea76]

Hello Rohan, John said there is oil leakage on the front cover gasket, making obvious to remove the cover...and it is a very boring job, because it is necessary to remove also the sump for a correct reassembly.If you make this job, it would be a pity not to "look after" the water pump, another precise and boring job...However, you are right, if you want just remove the head.The first time i made this job, it was in 1973 on the Elan of a friend(i was student to become a lawyer) and today, more than forty years later, i still don't know how i made, but all was OK!The "yellow bible" is Brian Buckland's book.Pierre

[billwill]

Hello, removal of head is not at all staightforward.In fact, the only right way is to remove engine; Why? Just because it is impossible to avoid oil leakage if you try to re install the front cover in situ. cylinder head, for this reason is the worst job on a baby Elan! You can read the "yellow bible" to confirm! Please, excuse my bad english, i am french!

There are many ways to do these tasks and each of us work out our own preferred method. This topic from the beginning is a good guide to removal of the cylinder head with the engine in the car. A task I have now done many times.

And I have even found on at least 2 possibly 3 occasions that I can replace the front timing case with the head in situ, but you need to lower the sump a little and you need to cut new cork gaskets (for top and bottom) accurately to fit the exposed parts of the front case an in addition to the normal gasket sealant you need an extra blob or two in the corners where you now have a cut in the cork gaskets.

As to being easier to take the head off after taking the engine out, I find it better the other way. If you take the head off in the car then it is then much easer to get the rest of the engine engine out without it.

[rgh0]

Hello Rohan, John said there is oil leakage on the front cover gasket, making obvious to remove the cover...and it is a very boring job, because it is necessary to remove also the sump for a correct reassembly.If you make this job, it would be a pity not to "look after" the water pump, another precise and boring job...However, you are right, if you want just remove the head.The first time i made this job, it was in 1973 on the Elan of a friend(i was student to become a lawyer) and today, more than forty years later, i still don't know how i made, but all was OK!The "yellow bible" is Brian Buckland's book.Pierre

Hi Pierre
I think the leak was from the top cork gasket on the front cover not the side joins to the back plate so he does not need to remove the front cover. While its possible to do virtually anything with the engine in the car my back prefers to work on engines on a stand at a comfotable height so I typically take the engine out if i have to do anything at all major these days !! You have been working on Elan engines even longer than me as I did my first rebuild in 1975 not quite 40 years ago yet

cheers
Rohan

[Johnfm]

Pierre

Your English is better than my French...

Water pump seems fine - no leakage and no play. My mechanic is happy to leave it as is.

Will definitely check whether the threaded hole in the head needs helicoiling - the head is at the machinists tomorrow - so will have him check it for me.

[alan]

hi Johnfm,
i suggest you clean up the exhaust manifold stud holes and put copperslip on threads.
By the way what electronic ignition have you fitted, a hall effect

[Johnfm]

I fitted accuspark and the black box.

I have a 23D distributor and their magnetic excited ring needs adjusting to fit - which is a bit o a pain.

[Johnfm]

Head was pretty square. Machine shop took 6 thou' off it I think. Head thickness now 117mm (4.6" in old money )

[Johnfm]

Sump removed today for re-sealing.

That top bolt on the starter motor is a bit of a bugger!!

Will all be back together next week - can't wait to fire it up. Hopefully no leaks.

[JJDraper]

Here's something to avoid..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STEEL-SEAL-HE ... 3cddbee4cd

Mind you, wish it worked on Twinks.

Jeremy

[billwill]

Sump removed today for re-sealing.

That top bolt on the starter motor is a bit of a bugger!!

Not if you use a socket spanner, a long extension bar, a universal joint, a short extension and finally the T-bar or ratchet handle.

[john.p.clegg]

Here's something to avoid..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STEEL-SEAL-HE ... 3cddbee4cd

Mind you, wish it worked on Twinks.

Jeremy

Just for twincam heads...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALUMINIUM-REP ... 258aa3f323

John

[Johnfm]

Sump removed today for re-sealing.

That top bolt on the starter motor is a bit of a bugger!!

Not if you use a socket spanner, a long extension bar, a universal joint, a short extension and finally the T-bar or ratchet handle.

I went from underneath and just used a 4 " or do extender. I think when I replace I will remove the fuel pump and go from the top.

Glad I took it all apart - nice to know the bores are good, the valves are good etc.