Sensible Engine Upgrades

[jono]

....a slightly better picture

[bast0n]

BILLWILL

I had the pulleys turned up by a very good engineering firm. I simply gave them an old crank pulley and an alternator pulley and asked them to fit twin grooves on the crank one and a suitable offset on the alternator one. Job done!

Choosing the right belt for the water pump was easy - I went to the local belt specialists and took a selection of belts that were close to my measurments and Bobs your Auntie! They were very helpful. To change the belt - that runs pretty loose - you have to take the water pump pulley off - but I have never had to.

I tried the toothed belt idea but found that the belts kept shattering when the revs got overexcited. It may have been due to a critical vibration period, but I did not bother to hang around to find the cause as this is so much simpler and more effective.

I have some drawings to give you the idea if you would like them.

PS I have a VERY neat throttle linkage if any one is interested......................

Don't grow up too quickly............

[billwill]

OK, I understand.

You could sell the design to Burton & let them make them.

[summerinmaine]

....a slightly better picture

That is helpful. Thanks.

So the set-up allows you to run a loose belt because the toothed pulley/belt eliminates slippage at the alternator?

[summerinmaine]

BILLWILL

I had the pulleys turned up by a very good engineering firm. I simply gave them an old crank pulley and an alternator pulley and asked them to fit twin grooves on the crank one and a suitable offset on the alternator one. Job done!

Choosing the right belt for the water pump was easy - I went to the local belt specialists and took a selection of belts that were close to my measurments and Bobs your Auntie! They were very helpful. To change the belt - that runs pretty loose - you have to take the water pump pulley off - but I have never had to.

I tried the toothed belt idea but found that the belts kept shattering when the revs got overexcited. It may have been due to a critical vibration period, but I did not bother to hang around to find the cause as this is so much simpler and more effective.

I have some drawings to give you the idea if you would like them.

PS I have a VERY neat throttle linkage if any one is interested......................

Don't grow up too quickly............

I'd like to see the drawings and the throttle linkage thanks.

Can you post them as attachments here?

[bast0n]

Summer in Maine

I will try.................! Errors and ommissions are not my fault.......................





Throttle linkage next

You have to make this up from stainless steel sheet. I used one of Mr Webers originals - hammered it flat - traced it onto the sheet - added the long tag whose angle is critical - and bent it to shape. Easy really. It gives a really smooth action - very short cable - weighs nothing and costs squit!!

[summerinmaine]

Summer in Maine

I will try.................! Errors and ommissions are not my fault.......................





Throttle linkage next

You have to make this up from stainless steel sheet. I used one of Mr Webers originals - hammered it flat - traced it onto the sheet - added the long tag whose angle is critical - and bent it to shape. Easy really. It gives a really smooth action - very short cable - weighs nothing and costs squit!!

Cool! I think I get it. The SS piece that you show in isolated image fits down on the butterfly shaft, and the upper piece that you show on the Weber is a separate piece that holds the cable and anchors the return spring, right?

And on the dual pulley, you're doing a more sophisticated job than simply brazing another equal sized wheel onto the crank pulley.

Thanks!

[bast0n]

Right!!

[summerinmaine]

Right!!

Cool. The pics made it pretty clear, but I just wanted to verify.

I think I'm going to copy your throttle set-up, and see about having a local machinist duplicate your pulleys.

Great looking kit!

[fatboyoz]

Jim,
That is correct, no belt slippage.

Jono,
Is that a timing wheel behind the crank pulley?

Colin.

....a slightly better picture

That is helpful. Thanks.

So the set-up allows you to run a loose belt because the toothed pulley/belt eliminates slippage at the alternator?

[adigra]

So much interesting stuff to consider. I use a very good small engineering firm near me who can make any kind of pulley, etc. so it's quite exciting to consider these options. I'll have to wait to get my engine back before proceeding, but one thing that I first have to solve is the fact that the PM supplied alternator sits far too forward on the supplied brackets. Shouldn't be a problem, but will need a bit of work.

Had some really good news from the gearbox specialist today. Apparently the gearbox is in great shape and needed nothing more than refreshing, bearings and seals. Fantastic!

I also picked up the fuel tank from having it repaired and Renu coated. For those unfamiliar with the it, it's a proprietary (only this company has the licence to do it in the UK) process of coating the tank inside and out, with what looks like a cross between a rubberised compound and powdercoating (the tank ends up black). It's guaranteed for life, and it allows you to keep the original part. It's not cheap at all, at ?350, but from speaking with people who have had it done in the past, it will outlast the rest of the car.

[summerinmaine]

I also picked up the fuel tank from having it repaired and Renu coated. For those unfamiliar with the it, it's a proprietary (only this company has the licence to do it in the UK) process of coating the tank inside and out, with what looks like a cross between a rubberised compound and powdercoating (the tank ends up black). It's guaranteed for life, and it allows you to keep the original part. It's not cheap at all, at ?350, but from speaking with people who have had it done in the past, it will outlast the rest of the car.

It's a bit late, but had you considered buying an Aluminum tank? I have one sitting on my shelf that I bought from Spyder a long while back, in anticipation of my existing tank someday needing repair/replacement. Hasn't happened yet, but IIRC I only paid @ ?150 for it. If originality was a priority, then obviously this wouldn't have been right for you.

[adigra]

My first idea was to buy an aluminium tank, but more I thought about it more I liked the idea of keeping the original one. The aluminium tank which everyone recommends is about the same price I paid to repair mine, which is now warranted for life... but it was a close call to be honest. In the end I decided that at least I know my original one would fit perfectly.

[summerinmaine]

My first idea was to buy an aluminium tank, but more I thought about it more I liked the idea of keeping the original one. The aluminium tank which everyone recommends is about the same price I paid to repair mine, which is now warranted for life... but it was a close call to be honest. In the end I decided that at least I know my original one would fit perfectly.

That's a good point. My car was hit in the rear, and had the entire rear clip replaced. The original tank required some gentle "panel beating" with a leather mallet in order to fit, and I expect that a fair amount of fiddling will be necessary if I ever need to fit the Al tank. So in the end, I may just sell the Al tank on, but it's not taking up too much space at the moment, so it stays.

[billwill]

>the PM supplied alternator sits far too forward on the supplied brackets

You will want it even further forward if you use that double pulley will you not?

That might save making a special pulley for the alternator.