New pre-engaged starter motor - won't fit

[type26owner]

http://www.gustafsonmachine.com
Look at the dealer list. My car is a S2 and LHD and there isn't any clearance issues. Never ever had it make any bad noises. I've had it in there for over 100k miles and the ringgear still looks almost new.

Look at the photos. The mounting flange will have to oriented like the righthand one. You can see it requires a captured bolt and Allen Nut at the top. Putting the nut on the first time is a struggle but once you've figured out how it's done it's no big deal after that. Helps to wedge an piece of stiff rubber hose behind the bolt head to keep it still and not have it wiggle about.

Ask for the special bolt and Allen Nut. Mine was supplied with the starter.

[BenMcCarthy]

Thanks again for advice.

I spent some time talking to Mr Gustafon last week on the phone. The starter motor in the Lotus is the same as the Mini except the pinion needs to be longer. While I was about to send off for a new shiny Gustafson starter motor (cheaper to deliver from US than buy here), a local mechanic I trust says he knows someone who has fitted a B - C registration (1984/5) Austin Metro 2-stud starter motor to a Lotus Elan before. The solenoid needs wiring out but apart from that its supposed to be fairly straightforward.

He's keen on trying it out. Has anyone got any thoughts on this?

[rgh0]

Ben

Its worth a try to see how it fits. I use the 3 bolt pre-engage starters from Escorts ( 70's) here in Australia in my Elan and plus 2 which bolt straight in, so other pre engage starters such as the Metro one may fit.

Rohan

[M100]

a local mechanic I trust says he knows someone who has fitted a B - C registration (1984/5) Austin Metro 2-stud starter motor to a Lotus Elan before. The solenoid needs wiring out but apart from that its supposed to be fairly straightforward.

He's keen on trying it out. Has anyone got any thoughts on this?

A huge proportion of 2 bolt Lucas starter motors are virtually identical so I'd guess it would bolt straight on (maybe with a pinion change) although I can't see it offering any advantages over a brand new/exchange unit specifically for the Elan from a Lucas dealer/other quality rebuilder.

The Metro was heavily revised around about C reg which is mid 1985 and I'm reasonably sure that the early Metro engines had an inertia starter identical to the Elan (and the Mini), the later ones after 1985 had a pre-engaged starter which is considerably bigger and probably higher power but they are still not "geared" like the Nippondenso based aftermarket ones - they can easily turn over 11:1 compression 1300cc race engines though.

Despite all the moans I've found basic Lucas starters do work reliably on the twincam but for a geared starter try Cambridge Motorsport who do both 9 and 10 tooth starters for 150 quid +VAT based on Nippondenso core units. (although the Gustafson units would probably be cheaper even allowing for import duty and VAT)

[BenMcCarthy]

Thanks

"the later ones after 1985 had a pre-engaged starter which is considerably bigger and probably higher power but they are still not "geared" like the Nippondenso based aftermarket ones"

it would be the pre-engaged version 1985 onwards that we are trying to fit.

Could you explain what you mean as the difference between higher power (potentially) and higher "geared"

[M100]

Thanks

"the later ones after 1985 had a pre-engaged starter which is considerably bigger and probably higher power but they are still not "geared" like the Nippondenso based aftermarket ones"

it would be the pre-engaged version 1985 onwards that we are trying to fit.

Could you explain what you mean as the difference between higher power (potentially) and higher "geared"

To turn the engine over at a specific number of revs with a specific torque
you can use either:

1) a small starter motor turning at high speed geared down to something much slower at the pinion

2) a bigger starter motor with a direct drive to the pinion (as per the Lotus original)

Looking from a British perspective, most historic British starters tend to be direct drive with inertia pinion engagement (the pinion is turning as it engages with the flywheel teeth sometimes leading to premature wear)
, in the late 60's pre-engaged starters were introduced (the pinion is engaged with the flywheel teeth and then commences rotating), in the 80's geared starters became prevalent although most Japanese cars had them before then. The geared starter is basically just a pre-engaged starter with a gearbox stage between the motor and the pinion.

The advantage of a geared starter is that for similar cranking performance the starter is lighter and uses less capacity from your battery to get the car started.

[dougweall]

Guys,

I fitted a Brise starter motor from Burton Power. Very neat, no soleniod on the outside, all encased within.
Cost about ?180 incl.vat. Pricey I agree, but nice and smooth, no graunching when it engages, hopefully it will be as our American friends say "fit it and forget it"
I also fitted a battery size cable from the starter motor bolt back to the battery.
Just my two penny worth.
Doug.

[alaric]

Chaps,

I have the same model of Brise starter motor as that pictured in the previous post. It fitted straight in with no misalignment issues. Works a treat.

Just need to get the bodyshell back from the restorers now so I can try running the engine instead of just turning it over on the starter... First time I tried it I'd forgotten to remove the plastic exhaust port sealing plugs that were put in when the engine was rebuilt - shot them across the garden with a series of loud bangs. Got my heart going...

Bought mine from Paul Matty - note that the starter supplied does not match the picture in on his web page. This concerned me at the time, but it seems to work well enough.