Crank pulley removal

PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri Nov 17, 2023 12:56 am

One further tip when using a screwdriver - I always try to to place a small block of wood or some other soft material between the screwdriver and the pivoting point in the middle. This helps to prevent marking or scratching to whatever point on the engine you are using as a fulcrum for leverage
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PostPost by: MACCA.GLM » Fri Nov 17, 2023 8:12 am

Another way if it’s a little tight is the use of bush leavers sort of a mini crow bar with more rounded ends which don’t put pressure on the thin outer cast rim

I can get mine behind the pulley

I have two sets from 1/2 inch wide to 1 inch wide with various inclines allowing to get behind. They are made from EN16 and are about 12 inch long

There’s not much that these Carnt deal with

Regards

G
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PostPost by: 512BB » Fri Nov 17, 2023 11:42 am

I feel sorry for those who do not think they are, or would be capable of removing a pulley with a hand tightened puller, such as the one I show, without damaging it, but on the plus side, its good that those folk know their limitations. Even the often quoted Wilkins uses a puller, albeit a 2 leg one, which I would not use, as a 3 leg puller gives a much more even pull.

I am well aware that the back rim of cast pulleys is fragile, and care is needed when using a puller, but I have never damaged one to date, and long may that continue.

At the end of the day, do what works best for you and what you feel comfortable with, but levering with screwdrivers is not for me when I have the correct tool for the job.

Nice weekend all.

Leslie
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