Fitting the exaust manifold with the body in place
24 posts
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Hi Mbell, yes that is exactly why I asked the question, I also saw that copper also has a galvic reaction with ally so seems like using copper slick would be a no. Bit concerned about general corrosion with the heat and steel screws. Suppose that's why studs are used in the first place with brass nuts.
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friedy - Second Gear
- Posts: 103
- Joined: 06 Sep 2011
If the head was off, I'd helicoil them and then use stainless Allen Head set screws .
John
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4533
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Hi All,
I cannot find the old studs to measure them, but I definitely bought 5/16" UNC to replace them.
I believe that although stainless steel is OK in many situations, it is not a good idea in aluminium. They are a long way apart on the galvanic scale and in damp conditions they can start a fight.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
I cannot find the old studs to measure them, but I definitely bought 5/16" UNC to replace them.
I believe that although stainless steel is OK in many situations, it is not a good idea in aluminium. They are a long way apart on the galvanic scale and in damp conditions they can start a fight.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
- ericbushby
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1351
- Joined: 13 Jun 2011
friedy wrote:I also saw that copper also has a galvic reaction with ally so seems like using copper slick would be a no.
I've also come to that conclusion and bought some none Cooper based anti seize to use on bolts in contact with Ali.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2643
- Joined: 07 Jun 2013
I’ve had plain steel 5/16 UNC Allen head bolts for the manifold for years. I haven’t removed the manifold that often but have had no problems, I used a Racal black anti seize lubricant on the threads.
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
- Bigbaldybloke
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 889
- Joined: 16 May 2017
Check the various antiseize products to see which suits the two different metals involved, there are a couple of good websites that discuss the different reactions between metals to help decide on the best products. Been some time since I read them so cannot instantly recall websites, but will try and search the grey matter and respond.
- tonyabacus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 429
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Thanks to all. A lot has happened around the house since the original request, but I'm about to -- finally -- tackle this project. At this rate, I may even live long enough to drive it...
One b-i-g correction. It's not a Sprint, but an SE. Other than both beginning with an "s", I have no idea why I default to that setting, so to speak. Then again, the car has been a revelation in many ways. I bought it from a Secret Service agent in Detroit who said he bought in in Canada where it had been raced, and the car was painted black before he repainted it Porsche Guards Red. When prepping the car, my painter friend never found a trace of black paint. A yellow nose on a dark blue body, yes, but no black paint. And that was just the start.
Anyway, thanks again for the help.
Chris
One b-i-g correction. It's not a Sprint, but an SE. Other than both beginning with an "s", I have no idea why I default to that setting, so to speak. Then again, the car has been a revelation in many ways. I bought it from a Secret Service agent in Detroit who said he bought in in Canada where it had been raced, and the car was painted black before he repainted it Porsche Guards Red. When prepping the car, my painter friend never found a trace of black paint. A yellow nose on a dark blue body, yes, but no black paint. And that was just the start.
Anyway, thanks again for the help.
Chris
- chrisawyer
- New-tral
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 24 Aug 2013
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