Pilot Bearing Issue

[SENC]

Tony, any of the regulars should have these - RD Enterprises or Dave Bean on this side of the pond, or Sue Miller, SJSportscars, etc. on the other side. There are both bronze and roller-bearing types available. I think the general guidance is that the sintered bronze has less to go wrong, without moving parts, but this part shouldn't get much stress or wear.

[Tmac897]

Tony, any of the regulars should have these - RD Enterprises or Dave Bean on this side of the pond, or Sue Miller, SJSportscars, etc. on the other side. There are both bronze and roller-bearing types available. I think the general guidance is that the sintered bronze has less to go wrong, without moving parts, but this part shouldn't get much stress or wear.

Thanks, I was going to check with DBE and RDE, but sometimes they don't stock or have access to some of the earlier engine parts. I was just trying to get some additional ideas if that doesn't pan out.

I was expecting an "easy" install of the clutch, and subsequently getting the engine back in the chassis -- which would have been a huge milestone in my restoration. I should have learned by now that nothing is easy with an Elan.

Tony

[promotor]

It’s out now. I just continued with the puller and it came out pretty easily once the initial adhesion was broken.

Now the question is replacement. Anyone know if these are still available? Could I have the center bearing machined out and replaced? Machined out to accept the newer roller bearing?

What’s the best way forward?

Tony

You can modify them to use the 6-bolt crank needle roller bearing if you have a 15mm input shaft.

Otherwise some suppliers in the UK supply a 40mmx17mm sealed ball bearing to do the job if you have a 17mm input shaft. I've never used one so can't comment on that approach though.

[Tmac897]

You can modify them to use the 6-bolt crank needle roller bearing if you have a 15mm input shaft.


Otherwise some suppliers in the UK supply a 40mmx17mm sealed ball bearing to do the job if you have a 17mm input shaft. I've never used one so can't comment on that approach though.

I have the 15mm shaft and I have the corresponding needle bearing I thought was the replacement. I’ll admit I really didn’t look too closely at the end of the crank when I ordered the clutch and pilot bearing. Just went by the RD Enterprises parts diagram. Imagine my surprise

So I guess my preference would be to machine the current bearing to accept the needle bearing. Just didn’t know if that was a good idea.

Thanks for the info.

Best,
Tony

[promotor]

You can modify them to use the 6-bolt crank needle roller bearing if you have a 15mm input shaft.


Otherwise some suppliers in the UK supply a 40mmx17mm sealed ball bearing to do the job if you have a 17mm input shaft. I've never used one so can't comment on that approach though.

I have the 15mm shaft and I have the corresponding needle bearing I thought was the replacement. I’ll admit I really didn’t look too closely at the end of the crank when I ordered the clutch and pilot bearing. Just went by the RD Enterprises parts diagram. Imagine my surprise

So I guess my preference would be to machine the current bearing to accept the needle bearing. Just didn’t know if that was a good idea.

Thanks for the info.

Best,
Tony

If you do machine the bush to fit the needle roller make sure it's got a good interference fit. It's been a while since I measured what the interference fit of a needle roller is in a 6-bolt crank though so can't advise off the top of my head whereabouts you'd need to be on that bush I/D.

Out of interest, what's wrong with your original bronze bearing? Why not re-fit it? Is it damaged?

[Tmac897]

If you do machine the bush to fit the needle roller make sure it's got a good interference fit. It's been a while since I measured what the interference fit of a needle roller is in a 6-bolt crank though so can't advise off the top of my head whereabouts you'd need to be on that bush I/D.

Out of interest, what's wrong with your original bronze bearing? Why not re-fit it? Is it damaged?

It is damaged. The engine was in pieces, in a chicken coop in Manchester, NJ. It was amazing to me that much of anything was salvageable. Block was good. Crank was OK. Had to replace a couple of connecting rods. Pistons were shot, etc.

My metalwork skills are pretty much at a sub-novice level, so I intend to take it to a machine shop.

[promotor]

If you do machine the bush to fit the needle roller make sure it's got a good interference fit. It's been a while since I measured what the interference fit of a needle roller is in a 6-bolt crank though so can't advise off the top of my head whereabouts you'd need to be on that bush I/D.

Out of interest, what's wrong with your original bronze bearing? Why not re-fit it? Is it damaged?

It is damaged. The engine was in pieces, in a chicken coop in Manchester, NJ. It was amazing to me that much of anything was salvageable. Block was good. Crank was OK. Had to replace a couple of connecting rods. Pistons were shot, etc.

My metalwork skills are pretty much at a sub-novice level, so I intend to take it to a machine shop.

[Donels]

I have just replaced my pilot bearing. I tried the grease method, not having any play-doh or blutac, and it didn’t work. Came back to it several times over 3 days and it would not move. A final whack on my hand convinced me I needed another plan. 1 minute with a slide hammer bearing puller and it was out. The old bearing was fitted backwards so don’t know if that made the difference.

[promotor]

I have just replaced my pilot bearing. I tried the grease method, not having any play-doh or blutac, and it didn’t work. Came back to it several times over 3 days and it would not move. A final whack on my hand convinced me I needed another plan. 1 minute with a slide hammer bearing puller and it was out. The old bearing was fitted backwards so don’t know if that made the difference.

Were you trying to remove a needle roller bearing, or a bronze bush? Needle roller bearings are a bit harder to remove as the outer shell can get corroded and form a bond to the crank.

The grease method is just pure physics - if you completely fill the void behind the bearing with grease and then introduce a very good fitting pilot / punch into the hole the grease will hydraulically(?) move the bearing if it is easier for the grease to act on the bearing rather than to escape up the (hopefully) small gap when you hit the punch.

[Donels]

Needle roller bearing. It is difficult to get a good seal but masking tape wrapped around the dowel helped. I suspect a thicker substance than grease was needed.