Is this oil pump ok?

[h20hamelan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VaTbfvzNbxQ

oil, clear sump

[richardl46]

Thanks Leslie, Tony and h20hamelan.

I did seal the through bolt in between bellhousing and gearbox but maybe not well enough, or maybe the input seal is leaking. I will endeavour to fix these when the engine eventually comes out again, along with getting someone to check the condition of the rear crank journal. I don't plan to add a clear plastic sump or overfill the oil but that is a fascinating video!

My problem is lack of experience/equipment and finding anyone local to give advice when I have the engine out. It was easy enough to put the block and crank in my car and down to Exon. Rather different with a complete engine!

Anyway, if I can keep the car on the road for now and just tackle other improvements on my list, that will keep me busy enough.

Regards, Richard

[richardl46]

New oil pump now fitted. Photo is the previous pump and when comparing to the new pump the only visual difference is the spring being offset from central.
However, when using the car there is very little difference in the pressure gauge reading, other than tickover hot now being 35 psi (was 40 psi) and 3000 rpm hot being 50 psi (was 45 psi). So a bit more spread but not dropping to 20-25 psi at hot tickover as others report.
Having satisfied myself that the pump is not faulty, perhaps I should put more miles on the car before considering another oil pressure gauge?

I've added a few photos of my (work in progress) car and in particular I've highlighted my solution to the bonded screen problem. Two attempts resulted in me making a mess of fitting the plastic chrome trim to the screen, then when I got a better result this was spoilt by the fitter not pressing the screen in far enough. The top corners were not in contact with the body and my later attempt to correct this caused wrinkling at one corner. It was also found that the roof would need repainting due to sinkage. So I decided to cut away the face of the trim, cut a slot around the edge of the screen and use a solid rubber T section with a similar profile.
One day I may risk removing the screen to try the plastic chrome trim again, but for now I will accept the non standard appearance and move on to other jobs. If only a thin chrome strip could be set into the solid rubber it could be made to look like earlier cars?

Your comments invited!

Regards, Richard

[alanr]

Very interesting to follow your tales of battle fitting the screen!
i will have mine to do next year following a repaint and changing the headlining and I am really not looking forward to doing it, so for some time now I have been following with keen interest other owners struggles with this horrible job!

Which supplier's chrome insert were you trying to fit?. I understand that the CTL one is perhaps narrower than the SJS plastic chrome strip. Unsure if this makes any difference though.

Does your car an upstand along the bottom of the aperture to accept the 'T' rubber that you have now fitted or have you just bonded the rubber to the body along the bottom of the body aperture.
It seems some +2S's can accept a rubber even though they were originally bonded in, but later +2S130's can't because of not having anything at all to attached the rubber to along the bottom.
Was the 'T' rubber you have fitted the widest one you could find? If on your car you can fit a rubber is it not all possible for you to find one with a plastic /chrome locking insert?

Keen to hear and learn more about the issues please...

Alan.

[512BB]

Richard, why don't you start a thread in the BODY section re your windscreen fitting issues. This is the ENGINE bit.

'However, when using the car there is very little difference in the pressure gauge reading, other than tickover hot now being 35 psi (was 40 psi) and 3000 rpm hot being 50 psi (was 45 psi). So a bit more spread but not dropping to 20-25 psi at hot tickover as others report.
Having satisfied myself that the pump is not faulty, perhaps I should put more miles on the car before considering another oil pressure gauge?'

I thought you had already tried a new gauge to ascertain if the old pump was working correctly? The pressures you now have would not be acceptable to me and I would be speaking to QED about the pump. I am hoping that the pump you bought from QED is not the norm now, and it is not a case of 'they all do that Sir'.

If that is the case, then everybody who has bought an over reading pump from QED needs to complain. How else are things going to be put right.

Leslie

[richardl46]

Hi Alan,

I think I'm more qualified to describe how not to use the plastic chrome trim than getting it right!
My trim came from Paul Matty so I've not seen the alternatives. I saw a screen being prepared on the bench at Mattys and a completed fitting, which showed some minor wrinkling at the top corners. Paul Matty said it was virtually impossible to get the plastic to follow such a tight curve. I've seen plenty of late +2s with the chrome plastic trim and very few were to the standard I would accept.
Bear in mind that my screen was already bonded to the car before I stripped the chrome plastic off flush with the face of the screen. Attached is the the spec of the black rubber I used to replace it, with the upright of the "T" trimmed back to sink into the slot I had made around the edge of the screen. This method could be effective for anyone with a good screen but tatty chrome plastic trim that just wants a tidy and economical fix.
My screen aperture is normal with no lower upstand so I did not have an option of using the old system, as with the rear screen.
I do hope to have another crack at the plastic chrome one day. There will be a risk of breaking the screen and damaging paintwork so I am not in a hurry.
Perhaps PM me and we can arrange a chat about your plans and my experiences.

Regards, Richard

Hi Leslie,
Yes a new heading would be a good idea if the screen chat continues. Sorry I've mixed up subjects!
I will speak to QED but as you say they may not be too helpful. The remote gauge I used was only a cheap device without fine calibration. If you think the pressures I have are not acceptable then all I can think is to order a new gauge from SJS. They appear to be 0-100 rather than 0-60 psi.

Regards, Richard

[alanr]

Hi Richard,
Thanks for the info. I will send you a PM.

Alan

[512BB]

'Yes a new heading would be a good idea if the screen chat continues'

And then you continued it.

'If you think the pressures I have are not acceptable then all I can think is to order a new gauge from SJS. They appear to be 0-100 rather than 0-60 psi'

I did not say that Richard. I said the pressures you are seeing would not be acceptable to me, knowing what they should be, as I previously stated. The pressures you have are not correct, but will not damage the engine. Secondly, I think it highly unlikely that the gauge is at fault. Lastly, don't buy an incorrect gauge, 0 -100. The correct gauge is available, try Caerbont or another supplier.

Leslie

[Craven]

If the accuracy of the oil pressure reading is in question then first establish the type of instrument used, + 2 I believe has an electrical system. Pressure sender unit in this system can be one of two types, later type requires the 10 volt regulated supply very reliable, but early version identified being a quite large unit easily seen screwed in the block is not so reliable, checking out this could be a good first move.

[snowyelan]

Hi Richard,

Is it possible the issue is a blockage elsewhere? You're 2 pumps and 2 gauges deep with components checked/replaced. The readings so far appear to lie within a small range which, to my mind, points to a fault elsewhere. I haven't had a twincam apart in 20 plus years so hope others with more recent knowledge will chime in with suggestions of what to check.

[draenog]

Richard,

In your third post you say you have a mechanical 0-60 gauge (i.e. it takes an oil feed rather than an electrical connector). FWIW, there's an original one currently on ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135320328320

[richardl46]

Apologies Leslie! I had typed my post before seeing yours, so just acknowledged your remarks. My forum eitiquette is somewhat lacking but I have taken your points on board.

Thanks all for the further suggestions. Yes the oil pressure gauge is mechanical and replacement 0-60 psi types appear to be out of stock or just not offered by the usual suppliers. Some specialists such as Caerbont don't list the 0-60 psi but I have sent enquiries to them. Speedy Cables (in the same town as Caerbont) will repair my gauge for £120 and 5+ weeks turnaround. The thought of a blockage in the oilways does concern me but I would like to try another gauge before contemplating a major engine strip down. With this in mind I've bought the one off ebay, kindly suggested by draenog.

If the ebay gauge gives a similar reading then it may be time to seek profession help from a long established local garage, who look after many classic cars. I just prefer to solve my own mysteries where possible, as it's usually cheaper and much more satisfying!

Thanks, Richard

[512BB]

No apology necessary Richard, and I wouldn't worry about etiquette on here either. I show some when others do!

Its a shame you bought that ebay gauge so quickly, as I was about to offer you the loan of a known good gauge that I have, to try. I still can if your ebay gauge does not work out. Let me know.

I am amazed at the price you have been quoted by Caerbont to repair / overhaul your gauge, £120. That price has doubled in the past few years because I had one done by them. Quite ridiculous. I also bought a NEW dual gauge from them, water temp and oil pressure, about 4 years ago, for £90 odd quid. They were selling them on ebay.

Anyway, hope your purchase works out.

Leslie

[alanr]

Hi Richard,
My take is that I don't think there is much wrong with your oil pressure readings at all. Idle 35psi hot is fine. 3000 rpm 40-45psi is also fine as is 50psi when stone cold.
More or less the same as the readings on my car and I have been used to over many years of familiarity with this engine.
Your oil leaks are not being created by excessive pressure if that is your concern. I am fairly sure they are an engine assembly issue and not related to oil pressure problem at all.

In addition you could always confirm your dash oil pressure gauge readings with a hand held oil pressure gauge temporarily plumbled straight in to the block takeoff. Definitely do this before spending money replacing dash gauges etc!

Alan.

[richardl46]

Hi Alan,
Interesting to hear your findings.
I've committed to the e-bay gauge now but can resell one if both prove to be giving the same reading. Anyway, I wanted to swap the oil pressure gauge for voltage gauge, as my small Mountney wheel makes reading the oil very difficult when driving. This is important as I am now paranoid about oil pressures!
I did try a £15.50 Amazon pressure gauge as photo and although the readings were similar to previous, this gauge may not be very accurate.
Quote just received from Caerbont to make a one-off 0-60 gauge. £160 + vat + postage!
Will post again when I have swapped the gauges but reassuring to know the pressures may not be so far out after all.
Thanks, Richard