Because front cover need replacement I need advices

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

Yeah make sens. Geeez...

[rgh0]

The front face of the engine block should be OK and flat and not need machining. I have never seen one that needed skimming unless due to corrosion and then the block was so badly corroded elsewhere it was not worth using.

As promotor says the top of the front cover should be about 1 mm below the block top. This compresses the normal 2.5mm thick cork front cover gasket to head down to about 1.7 mm when you allow for the compressed head gasket thickness of around 0.7mm. I dont know how accurately made the Burton front covers are but you may need to take a bit off the top of the front cover to achieve this correct gap. If your block has been skimmed or line bored and the crank centreline to top changed you may also need to take some off the front cover top due to this.

The other critical thing in assembling the front cover to the block is to get the hole for the front seal centred on the crank before you bolt it up. You can measure it or better still make up a centring tool the OD of which slips in the front cover hole and the ID that slips on the crank nose

cheers
Rohan

[rgh0]

What bother me is the shim thing. May be I should check the clearance before ordering from Burton.
this way I will be able to order new shims of the correct thickness as well as the front cover stuff.

Do I need also a special tool to access to the shims?

Check the clearances cold before you dismantle anything. When you dismantle measure and note down the thickness of the shims under each of the followers once you remove the cams shafts. You need no special tools to access the shims. If the head needs no work and the clearances are correct you should not need to replace the shims. If you need to replace them due to the clearances you measured being wrong then you can calculate the required new thicknesses from the measurements you have taken. If you do work on the valves or seats then you will need to do a trial assembly to determine the newly required shim thicknesses.

cheers
Rohan

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

You don't need a valve spring compressor?

[rgh0]

To just remove the followers and shims no need for a spring compressor. To remove the valves for inspection of the seats and guides then you need a suitable deep throat spring compressor which should be available at most tool stores for not much money.

cheers
Rohan

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

I thought it could be good to clean the valves and bed them in slightly with some grinding paste.

Is it something I should do automatically or should I skip that part.

[rgh0]

I would always take out the valves and check the stem to guide clearances and wear and relap in the valves on their seats any time I took a head off

cheers
Rohan

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

Yep, I don't know if I have the knowledge to understand if the guide are ok or worn out (well, the car does not drink oil nor smoke blue), but I like to lapp valves.

Some work ahead of me...

December rallye has to be forgotten.

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

Which one should I get?

http://www.burtonpower.com/valve-spring ... 02713.html

or

http://www.burtonpower.com/valve-spring ... 13892.html

[rgh0]

The more expensive one is the best for a twin-cam head The extension piece on the end that goes on the valves spring retainer with the cut outs makes it easier to get the valve collets in and out and to reach into the valve retainer in the valve spring pocket..

The cheaper one does not work well due to the valve springs being seated in a pocket in the head of a twin cam and are hard to reach with the non extend flatter end . I actually have one of these but modified it to have an extended end on the valve spring end like the more expensive one.

cheers
Rohan

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

Can I call you Dad? Thanks

[rgh0]

Yep, I don't know if I have the knowledge to understand if the guide are ok or worn out (well, the car does not drink oil nor smoke blue), but I like to lapp valves.

Some work ahead of me...

December rallye has to be forgotten.

Checking the valve guides and valve stems for wear is relatively easy but you do need a suitable micrometre and bore gauge to check the stem outside and guide inside diameter and determine clearance.

cheers
Rohan

[reb53]

Late as ever !

If you haven't actually done this by now.....take no notice of any numbers etched on the shims.
They may well have been ground in the past and the number may have nothing to do with the actual thickness.
Bit annoying if the shim says "80", and you think, "well, I need an extra 2 thou clearance so I'll order a "78".
Then you find the "80" is actually "75".....

Ralph.

[Pistacchio sprint 72]

good advice.

I intend to bring my engine to a machine shop.

I will give them the clearance I need at cold.

I won't give them the cam cover

this way I can check if they did it correctly before paying....