clacking noise at tickover

[miked]

Thanks John,

I had the cams out yesterday for valve clearance setting. All was clean in the cam shells. I will flush the cam but as you say the filter is there for a reason. I will flush the front and chain etc and do an oil and filter change.

Will report back about quadrant, but it hangs together now.

Bit shocking about how much marking there is on that sprocket after just 100 miles. I would be interested in anyone who has a losoe one checking for square against the pivot angle. It can be out on two axis. You can see this. Until I set up to check it properly it looks like it is distorted on two axis. When looking at it from the front of the engine it look like it is pushed backwards at around the 4 oclock position hence giving a vertical and horizontal stress.


Mike

[rgh0]

Hi Mike

A good quadrant should be square. I have one here that I got out of an old engine I was rebuilding that has a similar twist in it. I supected at the time it came from a DPO overtightening the chain but maybe there are some that were just not made right in the first place.

Cheers
Rohan

[miked]

Thanks Rohan,

Much appreciated. Thanks for confiming a square one. Like you say, who knows - strained or like that from day one. I am just contemplating on whether to pull the motor and flush the bottom end etc and pull the caps like John said.

I suppose it wore fine particles off that are suspended in the oil. I am not really that upset if I have to as I want to go in the sump anyway. Rad is in the nose so no great shakes. I modified a "push in" pickup 7/8 years back when you showed me how to do the gated baffled sump. I am dead happy with the sump but when I purchased Col Crouchers intructions (that I believe you worked on) I saw the little strengthening bracket on the pickup so I would like to go back in and do it that way. Mine has no tag on.
Just got my hands on a better lathe that should allow me to make the exact pipe size and concentrate more on the pick up.

Mike

[rgh0]

Engine oil always has lots of metal particles in it from the many wearing parts in the engine. The filter is there to remove the big ones that damage bearings and cause more wear but very fine ones circulate until you change the oil without doing much damage. An oil and filter change and you should be fine. But if you want to go into the sump anyhow to do the pickup suppport mod then cleaning out the sump and bottom of the engine of any remaining oil and deposits will not hurt.

cheers
Rohan

[miked]

Thanks for the advice Rohan,

Not got back to it yet.


Mike

[miked]

Update.

Cut a bar down to size and set the tensioer in lathe to compare against the bed on two axis. Found it twisted. Found it very easy to tweak back in the vice. Photos are after the tweaks and flat against the sprocket bolt in both planes. Took a couple of hours in all. Also cleaned up the sprocket edges.

I see no rerason why I don't use it again. It is bob on now. I will say that all the strength is in 3/4 of the device leaving the outer edge vunerable to (as Rohan says) overtightening of the chain in situ'. Also think about when you change a sprocket and have to break the stud loose. May have loctite on the threads (heat helps), and will be punched at the rear. A heavy hand with a spanner or socket would easily distort this. You live and learn. I recorded this as I can come back again when I do my next next engine. I will always check for squareness.

PS the quadrant is a strange shape IMO and it not that easy to decide whether it is bent or not by just looking. Seems to fox your eyes as you have to consider two planes.

Mike

[alan]

Mike,
i like the way you checked for squareness, top.
When i first bought my +2 and removed the special long quadrant pivot (026E0011) that screws into the head it tore out the thread in the head. The PO had loctited the quadrant pivot screw threads. After i had to fit a Helicoil Insert (BSPF). In 40+ Years of working on TC's i have never put loctite on the quadrant pivot screw thread but i make sure i fit the special washer. Of course once you have fitted a Helicoil Insert you should never put loctite on an Insert. There does exist Inserts that lock but they are dyed a red colour

[Hawksfield]

Miked Hi

Good post and the results are what you are looking for

I used a vice and spirit levels and found it was twisted, So I fitted a new one it now runs quiet with the correct chain adjustment.
I have always adjusted the chain whilst running at idle to give the best sound, you can tell if its to tight or slack.
To confirm this method I have removed the cam cover and checked the slack and was OK, I have been running
with this method for the last 10 years without trouble.
Works for me!

Your method looks much more professional but the results are worth the effort

[miked]

Thanks Alan and JH,

I pondered for a while wondering and then came up with this. I have got to admit that it is quite hard to see without some light at the back when it is a subtle distortion. One plane was but the other was quite easy to see being a little worse. I have always just carefully set the chain slack and not had a problem. I will have a play at tickover as I have a good empty engine bay since the rad and fan are in the nose. So no spinning hazards that side. Re Loctite. I have to admit that even with the correct special washer I was a bit worried and put a little Loctite on the pin thread. The hot air gun soon broke the seal though. I will have to stop it.

I will post when I have run again with the cam cover off and lexan cam covers on to see the chain lube action.

Mike

[john.p.clegg]

Mike
You're going to have to post a piccy of the lexan cover in place,engine running...

John

[miked]

John,

I will do. Before start up and then a few so many seconds in. Will put the newspaper etc on the wing and look for the same results that were posted. I forgot who did it for now but will find and post the link as it was his good idea.

Mike