crankshaft repair

[andyelan]

Hi Everyone

If you're running a late engine with a lip seal crank I'd thoroughly recommend the use of speedy sleeves. They're designed specifically for this sort of problem and are routinely use to repair industrial plant where minimising downtime is vital. I myself have used the on my Europa Special where the cam shaft passes through the head to drive the alternator.

The real reason I like them though is that the modifiation is totally reversable. If you fit one and get it wrong you simply peel it off and have another go (ok, they arn't cheap so you don't want to be getting it wrong too many time). If on the other hand you go for chrome plating or metal spray and that goes wrong, then you've got a scrap crank shaft.

Regards
Andy

[bcmc33]

I have to concede the point that the speedi-sleeves option is the most convenient and cost-effective way of resolving Brian's problem.

Well done to everyone who suggested them.

And to everyone else, please remember this thread.

I've just looked at the tall block crank I shall be using shortly - definately a canditate for a speedi-sleeve.

[garyeanderson]

Not that this has the remotest thing to do with Brian?s crank problem. I guess that hasn't stopped any of us before on tangential differentiation of a topic. So here are some photos of a 4 bolt lip seal crankshaft that I bought. It came with the original ugly flair Coupe that I bought up in Canada from Braian Robinson. I have gone on about this Coupe 36/6292 before and not one person will admit to ever seeing it before. Anyway the engine is not original to it and I didn't know it was anything different until I pulled of the flywheel to reveal this bit of one off engineering. Some one must have really hated the rope seal affair on the Twin Cam to go through all of the effort to make this up. I don't even know if it works. I think it was done in the Toronto area and raced in a Cortina. I would like to find out more about it but its one of life?s mysteries that will probably never be solved.

[reb53]

My question is answered.
Retaining lubrication, should have realised....
'Tis all clear, thanks Brian.

Ralph.

[alexblack13]

Take a good look at the seal holder too guys. It needs to be completely flat. Do you check it? How?

When finished with the bottom end and before the sump is fitted, I tend to turn the block upside down and fill the cavity between the holder and the block. It is amazing how oil finds a path out if that holder is not dead flat.. When running this looks for all the world like a bad seal too (drips from the bellhousing). So one replaces the seal (again!) and no result.

The correct sealant helps too ....

Happy days. Stay well all.

Alex..

[types26/36]

Well this thread is a couple of years old but now it has been resurrected I thought I would bring it up to speed, I have fitted the sleeve but the crank/engine has not yet been put into service .....it may be used with one of my "projects" later this year.

[rjaxe]

types26/36, can you recall what size speedi-sleeve you used?, I think I may have to consider this fix.

[types26/36]

Richard,
I'm sure I still have its box in the garage......I'll have a scratch around tomorrow.

[rjaxe]

Brian, if you can find the reference that would be very helpful.
Thanks

[types26/36]

Richard,
Here are the details of the one I used, basically you have to mic it up the crank to see if it falls within the tolerance's for the sleeve.
Unless yours is very badly worn I?m sure the same will work for you.
I used a 99311 which is listed on page 15 of the SKF catalogue
http://www.skf.com/files/877995.pdf
After fitting the sleeve and peeling off the fitting lip I fitted and tightened the flywheel to push the sleeve on a little more, the flywheel has a ?step? in it that goes over the end of the crank and the sleeve needs to be a little further on.
Care will be needed when fitting the seal as it goes over the lip.

[rjaxe]

Thanks Brian, exactly the info I need.