Pulling the motor

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[quote="tdafforn" two tricks however. for an easy reinstallation[/quote]

...and here is another tip if fitting engine with gearbox in place,
hang the spacer plate (the thin plate between engine & gearbox) on the dowels than slot string/thin copper wire or cable tie in bolt holes and secure in place......the plate always falls off when fitting engine! ......... once the engine is partly in place remove the securing wire or whatever was used.
I normally use thin copper wire which is easy to remove as it breaks or cuts as the engine goes into place.

[tvacc]

I stand corrected. I guess I have not had enough angle on the motor.....

[memini55]

I will toss in one more vote for doing it either way, as I have done it several times in either approach.

A couple things with the tranny in chasis reinstall. I use a clutch alignment tool to get the clutch disc in the correct center and apply a touch of lube to the spiget bearing. The next during installation, after I get the motor in near the gearbox, I then slip the spacer plate into place. I then have a varity of 3/8" bolts in different lengths and start with two long bolts across from each other and start to snug them in. You can feel if it binds up and then just back off a touch and wiggle the engine and again you will feel it slip into place. Most times the egine will start and slip almost flush without changing the bolts, but if not you can start shorter bolts to pull everything tight.

I have found the appart method easier for me as most times I am working on my cars without help for a second set of hands.

Mark

[ftsoft]

When I used to work on my S2 regularly in the 60's, I pulled them together. It's bit tricky lining everything up on the way back in, but no problems getting it out. My S2 is currently undergoing a complete engine rebuild and my mechanic at D&D Classics in Covington, Ohio pulled just the engine. He seems quite competent, so I assume (could be a mistake, although he is also doing a 1938 Bentley and a 40's Rolls) that he knows how to get it back in. He is about ready to put it back I think, so I'll wander up there and see how he does it.

Frank

[ivor badger]

It's a long time since I pulled an engine out an Elan, but buy a Snap On lifting sling. That's the one with the steel cable that looks like it runs through a pulley that isnt actually a pulley. That way you can adjust the angle of lift constantly as you lift it out. The other thing was angling the engine to one side to get the bell housing to clear the engine mounts on the way out.

It is certainly a better job than changing the wiper box on a mk2 Elite, a never to be forgotten experience and I was only helping occasionally.

[alexblack13]

And a wee dab of the whiskey on a rag is great for removing the oily fingerprints from where they should not be...

Aye right! Down the hatch Colin.. I have one in mit right now! OK now I'm not taking the Mr angry pills anymore.

Question... How about the engine with a Lotus 5 speed attached? Easy to fit together? I'm inclined to fit the box 1st and get that all spot on including the hyd pipe etc, then fit the motor.

Advice please.... Box on? or fit 1st?

General question this which works with this topic. I hope!

Al' ........

[tzar_of_pushrods]

Hello,
I'm afraid I could have to pull the engine to fight the leaks I have on the bottom end. I'd be really happy if someone could post a picture of the engine/tranny at the highest point (and likely the highest angle) when coming out. I'd like to access whether my garage is high enough for this operation.
I have a Spider chassis, but an old one. The cross member is welded in place, for now I do not dare designing a bold-on replacement to weld in. My MOT authorities have told me I'd need an authorization from Lotus to do it!!! They have not realized the chassis come from Spider.
And also: I have never pulled the engine from an Elan (but TR3's and AH3000), and I cannot understand the need to drain the g'box before. What happens to let the oil flow out?

Thanks
Fran?ois
Bought the Plus2 in 2010, might well be on the road in 2012

[ardee_selby]

<snip> also: I have never pulled the engine from an Elan (but TR3's and AH3000), and I cannot understand the need to drain the g'box before. What happens to let the oil flow out?

Fran?ois,

Have a look at this thread:

elan-f15/more-gearbox-oil-spills-when-removing-engine-t23487.html

Good luck with it - Richard

[tzar_of_pushrods]

Hi Rich,
Really cool. So I understand the main shaft does not extend all the way through the back of the gearbox. Too bad there is no blueprint of the plug. I'll make one and post it when I get access to the lipseal at the back of the gearbox to make measurements. And then get to the lathe.

Fran?ois

[ardee_selby]

I'd be really happy if someone could post a picture of the engine/tranny at the highest point (and likely the highest angle) when coming out.

Fran?ois

Sorry, have just re-read your post. Should have asked if you are you set on removing the engine/gearbox as an assembly?

If so, have a look at this account ref: splitting them in situ to make life "easier"...

elan-plus-f13/how-remove-engine-t16246.html

Salut - Richard

[billwill]

Hello,
I'm afraid I could have to pull the engine to fight the leaks I have on the bottom end. I'd be really happy if someone could post a picture of the engine/tranny at the highest point (and likely the highest angle) when coming out. I'd like to access whether my garage is high enough for this operation.
I have a Spider chassis, but an old one. The cross member is welded in place, for now I do not dare designing a bold-on replacement to weld in. My MOT authorities have told me I'd need an authorization from Lotus to do it!!! They have not realized the chassis come from Spider.
And also: I have never pulled the engine from an Elan (but TR3's and AH3000), and I cannot understand the need to drain the g'box before. What happens to let the oil flow out?

Thanks
Fran?ois
Bought the Plus2 in 2010, might well be on the road in 2012

The engine with gearbox is nearly vertical when the back end comes clear of the chassis, so to be sure, you should ensure that your lifting rig is high enough for the engine to be vertical. It doesn't have to fully clear the fibreglass nose at this point, because if you have two people, one can carefully lift the back end of the gearbox clear while the other person pushes the car out from underneath the engine.

You drain the gearbox oil first because otherwise lots will pour out of the back. The sealing surface is the outer smooth surface of the 'female' splines on the propshaft.

[tzar_of_pushrods]

Thanks much.
You guys are awesome. I can't wait to measure everything to see if the rail+pulley+balancer+engine+gearbox could clear the nose. Otherwise, I'll get the engine crane from work and do it outside, with some attention to safety to prevent the car and/or the loaded crane from rollingl down my 22% steep driveway and end up in my neighbor-across-the-street's living room.
I'm inclined to remove the 2 in one go. Seems conceptually easier but I'm flexible and will be happy to change the procedure along the way in case of trouble.
Fran?ois

[AussieJohn]

I always find the engine out with gearbox left in is the easiest; you just need the gearbox to be higher at the front than its final position to allow the engine to line up easily when refitting.

[ricarbo]

Slightly off topic, but - when you reconnect the gearbox to the engine, it is important that the splines are greased with just a little of the right grease. too much and it will get thrown all over the clutch plate, too little and the plate may not be free on the input shaft. Now, what grease do you use for this important little detail?
I think the answer is white lithium grease, which supposedly helps guard against corrosion, so helping keeping the clutch plate free on a car which may not get frequent use, but i am not 100%, as I admit I don't always correctly remember things I learnt so long ago. Work it over the part of the shaft where the clutch plate sits (only), then wipe it off, with a cloth, leaving it partly filling the grooves of the splines.
Another one is how much of what do you put on the bearing in the end of the crankshaft that receives the gearbox input shaft? I think a drop or two of engine oil, no more than that. Same on the output shaft where the propshaft goes.
Any other opinions?
Richard

[alexblack13]

I use this product. Very thick, high Moly B ... content and stays put very well withstanding v high temp's.

http://www.silmid.com/Products/Industri ... 0750G.aspx

Designed exactly for this type of purpose.

You get what you pay for!

Have fun Guys.....

AB....