TC Timing Marks

[Galwaylotus]

How about using a so called 'go-no go' gauge. basically a block of hard platic or metal cut to the correct size, it it slips in easily then nuts need tightening, if won't go in they need backing off. Kinda like a feeler gauge when doing tappets. Think I might try it myself when I get the head back on

Andy

How would that be different than using a feeler gauge?

[handi_andi]

I admit to having not got the manual out and checking the gap and thought that the gap was rather larger than it actually is. So no different to a feeler gauge really, mind you i think with may gauges i would need to use 3 feels together to geth the 40thou gap. a piece of 40 thou wire might be easier to use
Andy

[Foxie]

Anyone have an easy method for getting the spring washer gaps correct while the engine is in the car?

40 thou feeler gauge; or a finger nail

[handi_andi]

40 thou feeler gauge; or a finger nail

Would that involve doing them up till the spring washer is shut and then backing them off a bit by any chance

Andy

[Foxie]

Would that involve doing them up till the spring washer is shut and then backing them off a bit by any chance
Andy

Yes, that's a good one. 5/16" UNF is about 25 TPI, so backing off one turn would give a 40 thou gap.

I'm actually putting carbs back meself right now

[handi_andi]

I am just about to go clean one up and rebuild it whilst the other one soaks before cleaning and rebuilding. Then can clean the head and start the fun process of reassembling the top of my engine and hoping that I get a good seal on the head gasket as a leaking one was why I took it off in the first place

Andy

[Galwaylotus]

40 thou feeler gauge; or a finger nail

Would that involve doing them up till the spring washer is shut and then backing them off a bit by any chance

Andy

I read somewhered - the manual I think - that doing the fasteners up too tight can damage the O-ring seals. Might want to check that out before trying that method.

[Foxie]

I read somewhered - the manual I think - that doing the fasteners up too tight can damage the O-ring seals. Might want to check that out before trying that method.

Yes. That's what the manual says alright. The purpose of the gap is to ensure the carbs are flexibly mounted and not subject to excessive engine vibration. If the gap is right, the nuts are correctly tensioned and there is no danger of extruding the O-rings

The modern Weber service kit uses composite O-rings, and rubber grommets and cups instead of Thackery washers, which are liable to fatigue failure

[Galwaylotus]

It's running!!
I spent the afternoon very carefully reinstalling the Webers. Needed a mirror and wire-type feeler gauge to set the bottom gaps. Put in a new set of NGK BP6ES plugs. Checked the fuel pump again by pumping through the line up to the bulkhead then running a line from the end of the hard pipe to a fuel can on the ground. Reconnected the Webers. Cranked the engine and the pedal went to the floor! The cable had popped through the holding bracket. There must have been something else there when I took it apart! No bother - I found a small washer 3mm ID, clamped it in a vise and used my Dremel tool to cut a slot in it to allow the cable to slip through. Reassembled it and it started almost straight away!

Thank all of you for all the helpful suggestions. I love this forum!

There are two further issues. There's an extra throttle return spring on the carbs but I don't know where it connects. Any Ideas?

The second issue is potentially more serious. I can't get the car to move forward or backward. The brakes are jammed although only a week or so ago I was able to push the car a little. I even tried to break it free bygiving the engine plenty of revs an almost dumping the clutch. No go in either direction. Before someone asks, yes, I did release the parking brake handle. I guess I'll need to jack up each end and see which wheel(s) are jammed and take it from there. When it happens to my Mini, I can always break it free by powering out of it even with my puny 998 cc engine!

[Galwaylotus]

The second issue is potentially more serious. I can't get the car to move forward or backward. The brakes are jammed although only a week or so ago I was able to push the car a little. I even tried to break it free bygiving the engine plenty of revs an almost dumping the clutch. No go in either direction. Before someone asks, yes, I did release the parking brake handle. I guess I'll need to jack up each end and see which wheel(s) are jammed and take it from there.

Found it. I also noticed the brake lights were on. When I went out today, before starting the engine, I tried to push the car and it moved easliy. When I started the engine the brakes locked. I traced it to the servo but no matter what I tried, I couldn't release them - until I loosened the hydraulic connection on the servo. Withe the pressure relieved, I removed the vacuum line from the manifold and plugged the manifold. Then I could start the engine and move the car off the street and into my driveway. I'm not sure whether I have brakes now but I'll be away forthe next week or so and won't get to work on it anyway. I'm probably going to get a set of Green Stuff pads and leave the servo off the car.