Pulling my hair out! Why is my Elan so down on power?
23 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Thanks to everyone for all you replies.
Will bite the bullet tonight, redo the compressions as suggested, and take the cam cover off to check on the timing.
Fingers crossed. I hope that's what it is. If not then I think the head will have to come off for a study of the valves and bores.
Will post again after I've had a peek and report back.
Cheers,
Mark.
Will bite the bullet tonight, redo the compressions as suggested, and take the cam cover off to check on the timing.
Fingers crossed. I hope that's what it is. If not then I think the head will have to come off for a study of the valves and bores.
Will post again after I've had a peek and report back.
Cheers,
Mark.
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M.J.S - Second Gear
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 21 May 2008
One other thing to check, is the fuel pump ok?
Assuming you've been doing the compression checks with the engine warm, throttles open etc they are low so the points about timing etc are right - unless it's so coked up the valves aren't seating properly??
C
Assuming you've been doing the compression checks with the engine warm, throttles open etc they are low so the points about timing etc are right - unless it's so coked up the valves aren't seating properly??
C
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Craig Elliott - Third Gear
- Posts: 309
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Craig Elliott wrote: unless it's so coked up the valves aren't seating properly??
C
Hi Craig,
I assume the fuel pump is OK. From looking through the transparent filter it seems to be pumping well enough.
As for being coked up, this is a concern. For the last few years the car was run once a week around the block for a couple of miles, and the owner would give it a bit of choke to start
When I bought it the plugs would coke up within minutes and you would have to take them out and clean them to get 4 cylinders back. ADjusting the mixture, a new set of plugs and never touching the choke cured that problem.
It could be the valves are badly coked up, hence the compressions. I'll check out the timing marks but it's looking like the head will have to come off. I'll have to have a stiff drink before I look
Mark.
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M.J.S - Second Gear
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 21 May 2008
Good luck! Checking that the timing chain hasn't jumped is pretty straightforward - assuming you've got the workshop manual.
As you say it would seem odd that the compressions are so uniform if you've got bent valves. Not sure how you'd check how badly coked up it is without removing the head - may be worth having a quick look at the tops of the pistons by taking the plugs out and shining a torch in...
C
As you say it would seem odd that the compressions are so uniform if you've got bent valves. Not sure how you'd check how badly coked up it is without removing the head - may be worth having a quick look at the tops of the pistons by taking the plugs out and shining a torch in...
C
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Craig Elliott - Third Gear
- Posts: 309
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
have you checked the dizzy is working and advancing ok,i ask this because my dad had a car with similar problems years ago.if my memory is correct it was mechanical advance and would only run when up to temperature.i think the cure was simply a strip down,spray oil and wipe dry,then put back together,new points ect and job done.later an up rated coil was added,but i think that was because it was spare from a rebuilt jag v12. could it be the advance mech is stuck some how?
Kick the tyres and light them fires...!!!!!!!
- pauljones
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 825
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008
But I also second spark advance as a possible culprit with a simple fix. Your symptoms suggest a poor advance curve.
You do need to have the throttles open when doing a compression check. My guess is you didn't, else your compression is indeed poor.
This engine isn't broken in yet based on mileage from rebuild, so expect more power and fuel economy when it is. But something is wrong besides that.
You do need to have the throttles open when doing a compression check. My guess is you didn't, else your compression is indeed poor.
This engine isn't broken in yet based on mileage from rebuild, so expect more power and fuel economy when it is. But something is wrong besides that.
- denicholls2
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 550
- Joined: 23 Jan 2006
I had a similar problem once which took months to resolve as it was so deceptively obscure. The symptoms were the same, everything Ok until you want some power then it dies.
The problem was fuel starvation and was caused by flakes of rust from the inside of the fuel tank coagulating in the bottom of the fuel tank and partially blocking the outlet pipe.
To check/clear syphon the petrol from the tank and then undo the banjo thingy below the tank and clear all the stuff out.
Tawny
The problem was fuel starvation and was caused by flakes of rust from the inside of the fuel tank coagulating in the bottom of the fuel tank and partially blocking the outlet pipe.
To check/clear syphon the petrol from the tank and then undo the banjo thingy below the tank and clear all the stuff out.
Tawny
- tawnyowl
- New-tral
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 19 Nov 2007
I had a similar problem once which took months to resolve as it was so deceptively obscure. The symptoms were the same, everything Ok until you want some power then it dies.
The problem was fuel starvation and was caused by flakes of rust from the inside of the fuel tank coagulating in the bottom of the fuel tank and partially blocking the outlet pipe.
To check/clear syphon the petrol from the tank and then undo the banjo thingy below the tank and clear all the stuff out.
Tawny
The problem was fuel starvation and was caused by flakes of rust from the inside of the fuel tank coagulating in the bottom of the fuel tank and partially blocking the outlet pipe.
To check/clear syphon the petrol from the tank and then undo the banjo thingy below the tank and clear all the stuff out.
Tawny
- tawnyowl
- New-tral
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 19 Nov 2007
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