Running Problem
20 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Back to the original question, are you sure the snag is heat related. I recently had a similar problem, but it was caused by a restriction in the fuel pick-up pipe in the fuel tank. This meant that after a few minutes of running (coincidentally when it was hot, though this wasn't a factor) the fuel bowl in the carbs ran dry. Naturally, this symptom is easy to check for by looking at the fuel level in the carbs when it has stopped (assuming your floats are correctly set).
1965 Elan S2
- Matt7c
- Second Gear
- Posts: 182
- Joined: 01 Aug 2004
Absolutely agree with Matt7c.
I chased a fuel problem for ages eventually to find that there was a piece of rag stuck in the fuel pipe that was partially blocking the fuel supply. If the engine was ticking over there was enough fuel flow to fill the float chambers. With a bit of throttle the float chambers gradually emptied and then stuttering and coughing and eventually a dead engine. Very frustrating!
I have an electric fuel pump.
Regards,
Hamish.
I chased a fuel problem for ages eventually to find that there was a piece of rag stuck in the fuel pipe that was partially blocking the fuel supply. If the engine was ticking over there was enough fuel flow to fill the float chambers. With a bit of throttle the float chambers gradually emptied and then stuttering and coughing and eventually a dead engine. Very frustrating!
I have an electric fuel pump.
Regards,
Hamish.
"One day I'll finish the restoration - honest, darling, just a few more years....."
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Hamish Coutts - Third Gear
- Posts: 498
- Joined: 29 Jun 2004
Leave the fuel filler cap off and see if that helps
Regardless of ballast coil or not i'd get ANY known good non ballast coil, wire it direct to the battery not through any immobiliser/ignition switch etc, provide a dedicated earth from the engine block to the battery (jump lead) and also use a points actuated ignition with a known good condensor
If it dies then
a) check the fuel pump bowl (if glass) for fuel
b) remove the float chamber cover and check for fuel
c) check spark plug insulators to see if there is any radical temperature spread
d) remove spark plugs and check for fouling
Regardless of ballast coil or not i'd get ANY known good non ballast coil, wire it direct to the battery not through any immobiliser/ignition switch etc, provide a dedicated earth from the engine block to the battery (jump lead) and also use a points actuated ignition with a known good condensor
If it dies then
a) check the fuel pump bowl (if glass) for fuel
b) remove the float chamber cover and check for fuel
c) check spark plug insulators to see if there is any radical temperature spread
d) remove spark plugs and check for fouling
Martin
72 Sprint DHC
72 Sprint DHC
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M100 - Third Gear
- Posts: 450
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Thanks for all the suggestions.
It is looking like a sticky exhaust valve.
I will post when that is fixed and see if it is cured.
It is looking like a sticky exhaust valve.
I will post when that is fixed and see if it is cured.
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wobblyweb - Second Gear
- Posts: 122
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
20 posts
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