Look at this little beauty!

PostPost by: Frank Howard » Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:05 pm

Two years ago, I paid $150.52US plus shipping for mine. Ordered it from:

Tingle's Lotus Center
1615 Shawsheen Street
Tewksbury, MA 01876
USA
Phone: 978-851-8370
Fax: 978-640-0889
e-mail: [email protected]
Web site: http://www.tingleslotus.com

He is going out of business and probably has none in stock, but he will order one from Gustafson for you. Most likely, he'll want more at this point. How much more? Ask him.
Frank Howard
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Mon Mar 26, 2007 6:46 pm

Am I missing something?! I have an old 'Prince of Darkness' Joe Lucas starter which has never let me down, rain, snow or two week lay-up in severe frosts (over Christmas a few years back). I have been watching these starter threads with some mystification. The car ('68 +2) is and has been a daily driver for 5 years and lives outside on the street. The only modifications that I have are an alternator conversion, Lumenition, and a Magnecor cap & leads (stopped an intermittent misfire). The battery is a normal sealed unit (42Amphr I think) not a truck unit! What is the difference, regular use? Starting procedure is one firm pump on the throttle, and a firm twist of the key. Usually starts first turn. If the engine is so difficult to start, surely the problem is not the starter, but the engine. A powerful starter surely masks other problems, like using 'Eazi Start'?

Everything else seems to go crappy after a while, but starting has always been reliable.....

Jeremy
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PostPost by: stuartgb100 » Mon Mar 26, 2007 7:32 pm

Jeremy,

I, too have watched these posts with some mystification.

Guess we're lucky !

OTH I a have flattish battery after a couple of weeks lack of use, so probably earth leakage problems. or a carp battery.

I also have cam sprocket problems .... see " A cautionary tale", soon to be posted.

Regards.
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PostPost by: pereirac » Mon Mar 26, 2007 10:54 pm

I bought one of those quick disconnect battery connectors and disconnect the battery when the car is not in use, saves any earth leakage and flat battery problems, makes the car (slightly) more difficult to steal and stops any electrical fires (hopefully).. The only time I had problems with my standard Lucas starter was when I had a dirty earth connection between the negative terminal and the chassis (in the boot / trunk).

Carl
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PostPost by: Old English White » Tue Mar 27, 2007 11:48 am

... I want to go for one of these for "OEW"... Your opinion please...
https://www.burtonpower.com/default.aspx
But how many tooth should I pick !?!(if someone know before I have to remove the old )
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Tue Mar 27, 2007 6:15 pm

OEW,
Why if it is so much more expensive than the Gustafsen unit?
Chris
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Sun Apr 01, 2007 2:12 pm

I have just fitted the starter. It was easier to fit the top bolt as the unit is smaller than the original starter. The main terminal is however in a more difficult position and I then found it was larger than the lucas terminal. I had to get a drill under the car and enlarge the hole in the cable connection. In retrospect I should have checked that first and bolted on the power cable before fitting the mounting bolts.
Never mind the result is great and the engine spins over effortlessly and starts straight away even with a low battery. This starter only needs 8volts to start the engine.
I know it wasn't neccesary but I think it is a valid upgrade from the original lucas unit at not much of a cost.
Chris
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Sun Apr 01, 2007 4:47 pm

chrishewett wrote:The main terminal is however in a more difficult position and I then found it was larger than the lucas terminal. I had to get a drill under the car and enlarge the hole in the cable connection.

Chris,

I came up with a slightly better solution. I purchased a battery cut off switch and mounted it on the bulkhead, right where the battery cable enters the engine compartment. As a result, the main battery cable was now too long (because it originally ran across the bulkhead to the soleniod). I pulled the excess through to the boot, cut it off, and remounted the original battery post clamp on the now shortened cable. Then I went to my local auto parts store and purchased a 24" battery cable with standard cable connections on each end (with the holes in them). I ran it from the cut off switch to the Super Starter and as a bonus, the holes in the new cable fit on the terminal without any modification whatsoever.

And for all you purists out there, :roll: while the cut off switch was not made by Lucas, it was made in England. As it turned out, it was defective :( and I had to replace it with another one (same model).
Frank Howard
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PostPost by: 264889socal » Sun Apr 01, 2007 10:29 pm

While attending the Good Guys National Show yesterday, I came across a couple of vendors with some interesting bits. First was a battery cutoff switch similar the the familiar round metal switch used as a master switch in many race cars. With one exception, it has a removable key. Not like the plastic one with the red plastic key, but an almost regualr metal key. The vendor is Kwik Wire, www.kwikwire.com, 920.921.2637. Not bad at $25us. Nice way to secure your car and prevent battery drain. They also have lots of wiring connectors, fuse blocks and other electrical things.

The other vendio was Galaxy High Performance Parts. They sell the small 45 amp alternator, single wire, for (show price?) $125us. Can be found at www. galaxyhighperformance.com, 626.962.0407.

Rob
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PostPost by: Old English White » Mon Apr 02, 2007 7:11 am

... Chris ,
I just realise than the dollard was so low compare to ?uro ... and how right you are !
But , I still need to know what number of tooth it should have , whatabout the necessary mods , and where should I order mine with confidence .
Previouly , I try to order one , but links were dead or I wasn't able to specify my model of car-engine ...
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Mon Apr 02, 2007 3:31 pm

Christian,
If you go on the link I supplied at the start of this thread there is an email address for Dr. Martin. I emailed him with my requirements and he knew what I needed for the lotus twincam. I questioned the tooth requirement and was assured that the nine tooth would be fine whether or not my original starter was nine or ten. Sure enough it works fine. I bypassed the solenoid as per the instructions on the website as I thought it was easier to use the original solenoid. I payed by paypal.
Chris
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PostPost by: tower of strength » Tue Apr 03, 2007 12:23 am

I believe I have found a solution to the weak starter motor issue. The original starter fitted to the Elan is the same as fitted to the mini and the issue with the available "reconditioned" units is that they have often been through the process several times and basically they have had it.

Late Europa Twin Cams had a pre engaged starter motor, designed for the Maxi 1750, its part Number is LRS311, it has a 2 bolt fixing like the old style and fits a treat. I got an exchange unit from my factors for ?50 inc vat exchange (the exchange was an old ford pre engaged jobbie !!). This motor is more powerfull than the original type and I recall my brothers Europa span over like a modern car without that god awfull cruch of the bendix meshing (mashing??) with the ring gear.

just a thought

Mark
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PostPost by: Old English White » Tue Apr 03, 2007 6:08 pm

... Today "OEW" was on the road again ... Not for long , but enough to make my day !!!
A new battery will do it , waiting for the new starter , thanks to Chris , I payed a good price .
Stay on tune , surely I 'll need help for fitting!
Christian.
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