things to do with the engine out

PostPost by: Dave-M » Fri Nov 24, 2006 2:35 pm

Tim, If it does malfunction you will have to remove the engine to fix it, but, as it acts directly on the clutch forks and not through a bent tin lever and is protected from engine oil and the elements and has a much larger seal area it should last the life of a twin cam engine.
Bleeding is done by means of an external nipple either on a flexible pipe or a rigid pipe with the nipple end fixed at some convenient location.
Fitting one to a Twin cam removes the problems of heat and oil affecting the slave cylinder, the need to adjust the slave cylinder link, the faff with the circlip and the possibility of the slave cylinder seizing in the bell housing. A worthwhile mod in my opinion
Regards
Dave
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PostPost by: jkolb » Fri Nov 24, 2006 3:50 pm

Saab has used this approach for many years with few problems. The one important caution, however, is that you will need to fabricate a positive stop for the clutch pedal, as overdriving the cylinder will pop the seal, resulting in a horrible mess, the need to remove the engine, and the need to replace the clutch disk that is now saturated with hydraulic fluid. If this sounds like it comes from experience - it does.

Jerry
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Fri Nov 24, 2006 8:59 pm

jkolb wrote:Saab has used this approach for many years
If this sounds like it comes from experience - it does.
Jerry


So Jerry, tell some more.....did you use the Saab parts? which Saab? cost? modifications? easy/difficult? standard gearbox/clutch? master cylinder? worth the effort?
I feel an article is called for :D
Brian
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PostPost by: tdafforn » Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:45 pm

So, has anyone put a co-axial slave cylinder in from Burtons?
Tim
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