bulindg up a 711m block for an everyday twink

[tdafforn]

Just discovered that you can buy the sump gasket alone from burtons..
Is there an advantage to running the Lotus seal compared to the 711m...
The 711m looks more beefy..
Cheers
tim

[types26/36]

Well I prefer the 711 one as I find it easier to fit, an other option which is what I do is to use the 711 sump gasket and rear seal but for the front I get some round rubber section (usually available at bearing shops) and make the front seal. I dont like the cork Lotus one (if they still do it ...haven't bought one of those for years) Even with my S2 Elan I fitted the 711 rear housing as it has been converted to 6 bolt crank. I will do the same on the Sprint when/if I need to take the engine out.

[john.p.clegg]

Tim
Don't you dare drill a hole in your cover,just bring it to the next lotus DO and swap it for my modified camcover fitted with a brass rightangle breather and pipe to catchbottle.....

John

Oh' i wish i could reply to posts in the archive(like every other bugger can) but it says only moderators can do that.........

Is It ME?......

[types26/36]

Oh' i wish i could reply to posts in the archive(like every other bugger can) but it says only moderators can do that.........
Is It ME?......

John,
Do you subscribe to the mailing list? if you dont then join it and enter your replys there, they should automatically come through on the archive section if the subject is been debated there as well, the forums posts do not show on the mailing list but you will see there are two seperate threads on the same subject as Tim posted on both the mailing list and the forum........O.K. now I'm sure I've totally confused you as I've nearly confused myself

[types26/36]

Tim,
A couple of other points you should be aware of, after decking the block slightly chamfer the block around the head bolt threads and check that the head bolts do not bottom before torqueing the head.
You will probably need a slightly longer front head bolt (the thin one that screws into the timing case) the case strips very easy if the bolt does not screw well into the case.
Check on the front of the block that the blanking plug for the main oil gallery is is screwed well in, I have seen a few that were protruding and this could interfer with the timing cover back plate (even though the back plate is recessed to suit)
Another point is that you should check and reset the valve timing with a timing disc as the longer chain changes the relative position of the sprockets to block.

[tdafforn]

Hi Everyone,
Thanks for all the replies..
John might take a rain check on the swap until I know for sure that the breather system is inadequate
I quite like the idea of using the hepolite pistons from burton that have been designed for the 711m upgrade. Seems to remove the need to take anything off the block.
Only worry would be whether this would make the bonnet clearence a problem?
I was also wondering whether there was any useful preperation I could do to the conrods as they are sitting around and I will not be able to afford the pistons for a month or so..
I guess balancing would be good?
What sort or tolerence is good?
I've seen references to balancing each end, should I do this? Is it relatively easy? Where should I remove material from?
Is it also worth polishing out any possible stress risers or is this just for extreme revs?
Cheers
Tim
Cheers
tim

[john.p.clegg]

Brian

Received and understood...
John


Tim
Yes,by all means balance the rods (each end) to as fine a tolerence as you can get and I think a good polish would not go amiss

P.S. if you use pistons that don't need the block decking you'll need a much thicker spacer plate in your front cover?

John

[tdafforn]

Hi John,
very true, nothing is simple!
I'll have to have a chat to the folks are Burton and QED..
Cheers
tim