Crank sensor pickup mounting

PostPost by: M100 » Mon May 20, 2024 11:06 am

Is there anyone here familiar with the mounting arrangements for a crank sensor on a TC?

QED list a modified crank pulley, a mounting block, a mounting bracket and the sensor itself (as shown below)

In the absence of a suitable flywheel and pickup arrangement which would be visually more appealing, then clearly I would require the crank pulley & sensor but I can’t figure out how the other mounting bits actually ‘fit together’ and whether I need both the bracket & block.

Do they mount under the front cover bolts or the sump bolts?

Long gone are the days when the QED catalogue was informative :(
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PostPost by: SimonH » Mon May 20, 2024 12:41 pm

I have the mounting bracket. It goes on 3 sump bolts with longer bolts and the spacers to point up at the front pulley. No idea where the block version goes but someone will have done it I imagine
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Mon May 20, 2024 1:52 pm

I have the crank pully and mounting bracket on mine (from QED).
They do not mention the need to cut a tooth off, but I figured it out.
The pickup is not turned correctly in this picture and I had to do a bit of shimming to get proper clearance.
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PostPost by: DamianB » Mon May 20, 2024 3:03 pm

I have similar setup to Lotus54.
So parts list is: Crank Pulley, Crank Sensor Mounting Bracket, Crank Speed Sensor - Ford type.

I also needed to adjust the gap between sensor and pulley teeth. I did so by fitting and adjusting 3 stacks of washers between the Bracket and the sump until I got the height just right, then removed the washers and cut the supplied mounting ferrules to match the length of the washer stacks.
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PostPost by: shynsy » Tue May 21, 2024 1:19 pm

Hi All,
I think John clegg ( of this forum) runs his system from the back of the flywheel. He machined the flywheel to give a signal. It was a piece of art if it remember.
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PostPost by: HCA » Wed May 22, 2024 8:01 am

Or, if you happen to need a new flywheel, QED sell one with the teeth already cut in. I cannot remember, but is was circa £50 extra for a job well done.
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PostPost by: M100 » Wed May 22, 2024 10:25 am

Thanks all, it makes things quite a bit clearer.

Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup

It’s an engine out, full and hopefully for me at least final refresh / rebuild. New ‘burton’ front cover, geared starter, DTA engine management, ignition only for now but very tempted by Jenvey ‘Heritage’ DCOE throttle bodies to replace the very tired Dellortos I have now.

In the grand scheme of things a new flyweight wouldn’t be a problem.

New head (was going to be QED) but despite them still running advertising about the head in the latest club lotus magazine they confirm they no longer supply heads and strangely refer potential customers to an engine rebuild place that clearly know bugger all about supplying new heads.

SAS will supply a head at circa £3000 + vat, a bit cheaper than Burton.
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PostPost by: Lotus54 » Wed May 22, 2024 1:42 pm

I removed 1 tooth, so a 36/1 for the front pulley.

The mapping and base info supplied was all wrong, but I figured it out and made an ignition map based of someone that did it on a dyno. Then I can fine tune if needed.

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PostPost by: SimonH » Wed May 22, 2024 4:05 pm

M100 wrote:Thanks all, it makes things quite a bit clearer.

Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup


You don’t ’need’ a cam sensor, unless you want to run fully sequential injection and ignition. I’d just use wasted spark and batched injection unless you are after every last drop of performance and want minimum emissions.

You can remove whatever number of teeth your ecu uses. The normal one for a 36 wheel is 36-1 ie Ford and if 60 teeth then 60-2 generally a generic GM pattern. You can usually select various ones if the ecu has the capability, 4+1 will do the job. It’s just a speed pickup and something to tell it when to start counting for where tdc will be. The gap isn’t at tdc but usually 90 odd degrees before.
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PostPost by: HCA » Wed May 22, 2024 4:12 pm

M100 wrote:Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup


QED will make up what you want. I opted for 62 teeth. Yes, you then cut out the missing toothe depending where you place the pick-up.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Thu May 23, 2024 4:45 am

FYI...

2014_0116aks0003.jpg
2014_0116aks0003.jpg (116.61 KiB) Viewed 560 times


mod flywheel 3.jpg
mod flywheel 3.jpg (108.54 KiB) Viewed 560 times


2014_0318enginein0002.jpg
2014_0318enginein0002.jpg (112.25 KiB) Viewed 560 times


2014_0109 efi flywheel.jpg
2014_0109 efi flywheel.jpg (109.96 KiB) Viewed 560 times


The inner row was for chapman ( add lightness ).


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