Crank sensor pickup mounting
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Is there anyone here familiar with the mounting arrangements for a crank sensor on a TC?
QED list a modified crank pulley, a mounting block, a mounting bracket and the sensor itself (as shown below)
In the absence of a suitable flywheel and pickup arrangement which would be visually more appealing, then clearly I would require the crank pulley & sensor but I can’t figure out how the other mounting bits actually ‘fit together’ and whether I need both the bracket & block.
Do they mount under the front cover bolts or the sump bolts?
Long gone are the days when the QED catalogue was informative
QED list a modified crank pulley, a mounting block, a mounting bracket and the sensor itself (as shown below)
In the absence of a suitable flywheel and pickup arrangement which would be visually more appealing, then clearly I would require the crank pulley & sensor but I can’t figure out how the other mounting bits actually ‘fit together’ and whether I need both the bracket & block.
Do they mount under the front cover bolts or the sump bolts?
Long gone are the days when the QED catalogue was informative
Martin
72 Sprint DHC
72 Sprint DHC
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M100 - Third Gear
- Posts: 450
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
I have the crank pully and mounting bracket on mine (from QED).
They do not mention the need to cut a tooth off, but I figured it out.
The pickup is not turned correctly in this picture and I had to do a bit of shimming to get proper clearance.
They do not mention the need to cut a tooth off, but I figured it out.
The pickup is not turned correctly in this picture and I had to do a bit of shimming to get proper clearance.
1966 Lotus Elan S3- Benelli motorcycles (various)
- Lotus54
- Second Gear
- Posts: 128
- Joined: 10 Oct 2023
I have similar setup to Lotus54.
So parts list is: Crank Pulley, Crank Sensor Mounting Bracket, Crank Speed Sensor - Ford type.
I also needed to adjust the gap between sensor and pulley teeth. I did so by fitting and adjusting 3 stacks of washers between the Bracket and the sump until I got the height just right, then removed the washers and cut the supplied mounting ferrules to match the length of the washer stacks.
So parts list is: Crank Pulley, Crank Sensor Mounting Bracket, Crank Speed Sensor - Ford type.
I also needed to adjust the gap between sensor and pulley teeth. I did so by fitting and adjusting 3 stacks of washers between the Bracket and the sump until I got the height just right, then removed the washers and cut the supplied mounting ferrules to match the length of the washer stacks.
Damian
67 French-Blue Elan S3 DHC 45/7001
67 French-Blue Elan S3 DHC 45/7001
- DamianB
- First Gear
- Posts: 43
- Joined: 04 Sep 2022
Hi All,
I think John clegg ( of this forum) runs his system from the back of the flywheel. He machined the flywheel to give a signal. It was a piece of art if it remember.
Tim
I think John clegg ( of this forum) runs his system from the back of the flywheel. He machined the flywheel to give a signal. It was a piece of art if it remember.
Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
- shynsy
- Second Gear
- Posts: 104
- Joined: 15 Mar 2023
Thanks all, it makes things quite a bit clearer.
Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup
It’s an engine out, full and hopefully for me at least final refresh / rebuild. New ‘burton’ front cover, geared starter, DTA engine management, ignition only for now but very tempted by Jenvey ‘Heritage’ DCOE throttle bodies to replace the very tired Dellortos I have now.
In the grand scheme of things a new flyweight wouldn’t be a problem.
New head (was going to be QED) but despite them still running advertising about the head in the latest club lotus magazine they confirm they no longer supply heads and strangely refer potential customers to an engine rebuild place that clearly know bugger all about supplying new heads.
SAS will supply a head at circa £3000 + vat, a bit cheaper than Burton.
Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup
It’s an engine out, full and hopefully for me at least final refresh / rebuild. New ‘burton’ front cover, geared starter, DTA engine management, ignition only for now but very tempted by Jenvey ‘Heritage’ DCOE throttle bodies to replace the very tired Dellortos I have now.
In the grand scheme of things a new flyweight wouldn’t be a problem.
New head (was going to be QED) but despite them still running advertising about the head in the latest club lotus magazine they confirm they no longer supply heads and strangely refer potential customers to an engine rebuild place that clearly know bugger all about supplying new heads.
SAS will supply a head at circa £3000 + vat, a bit cheaper than Burton.
Martin
72 Sprint DHC
72 Sprint DHC
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M100 - Third Gear
- Posts: 450
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
I removed 1 tooth, so a 36/1 for the front pulley.
The mapping and base info supplied was all wrong, but I figured it out and made an ignition map based of someone that did it on a dyno. Then I can fine tune if needed.
mark
The mapping and base info supplied was all wrong, but I figured it out and made an ignition map based of someone that did it on a dyno. Then I can fine tune if needed.
mark
1966 Lotus Elan S3- Benelli motorcycles (various)
- Lotus54
- Second Gear
- Posts: 128
- Joined: 10 Oct 2023
M100 wrote:Thanks all, it makes things quite a bit clearer.
Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup
You don’t ’need’ a cam sensor, unless you want to run fully sequential injection and ignition. I’d just use wasted spark and batched injection unless you are after every last drop of performance and want minimum emissions.
You can remove whatever number of teeth your ecu uses. The normal one for a 36 wheel is 36-1 ie Ford and if 60 teeth then 60-2 generally a generic GM pattern. You can usually select various ones if the ecu has the capability, 4+1 will do the job. It’s just a speed pickup and something to tell it when to start counting for where tdc will be. The gap isn’t at tdc but usually 90 odd degrees before.
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SimonH - Third Gear
- Posts: 291
- Joined: 15 Sep 2004
M100 wrote:Presumably in the absence of a cam sensor trigger that QED flywheel will require the user to remove two timing teeth for a 60-2 setup
QED will make up what you want. I opted for 62 teeth. Yes, you then cut out the missing toothe depending where you place the pick-up.
Hal Adams
Evora SR
Elan +2
Evora SR
Elan +2
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HCA - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1087
- Joined: 03 Jan 2020
FYI...
The inner row was for chapman ( add lightness ).
John
The inner row was for chapman ( add lightness ).
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
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