What would you do, re: distributor?

[gjz30075]

If you had a breakdown on the road, and you determined it was either the points (or pertronix,or...) or
the condenser, would you
a) remove the distributor, 'fix' it, and reinstall ?
1) remove the hold down screw and remove dist.?
2) loosen clamp and remove distributor?
b) remove said parts with the distributor in situ?
c) remove the plate these items are screwed to, 'fix' it and reinstall the plate?

action Item 'c' would require very stubby screwdriver and hope the screws are in good shape and not too tight.
action item 'b' would require the same as above
action item 'a' would require getting the timing close.

This is assuming you have the replacement parts with you, as spares.

I'm just organizing my 'break down' tool/parts bag and finding some things redundant and some useless.

[512BB]

If I was able to determine that the points or condenser were at fault by the roadside, I would do exactly the same as I would if the car was in my workshop.

Remove the bonnet. Remove the spark plugs. Turn the engine to 12 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke. I then know that the rotor arm should be pointing to no.1 in the dissy cap, which on my cars is always at about 1.30. Refit all the plugs.

Slacken off the dissy clamp, NOT the clamp hold down screw. Remove dissy. Fit new condenser and points and set to desired gap. Refit dissy in a retarded position and tighten clamp until I can just about move dissy. Replace dissy cap, then turn ignition on. Rotate dissy clockwise very slowly until you hear CLICK. That is the points opening and no.1 spark plug sparking. The engine is now timed. No need for a strobe, but always check if you have a strobe to hand. In my experience, the timing will be almost spot on. Tighten up dissy clamp.

Refit bonnet and carry on your merry way, about half an hour later.

Leslie

PS. I would not carry out that procedure on a busy road. If I was not able to drive the car to a quiet road or pref a car park, I would call the emergency services.

[gjz30075]

PS. I would not carry out that procedure on a busy road. If I was not able to drive the car to a quiet road or pref a car park, I would call the emergency services.

I agree. The scenario I presented just happed to me. The car stuttered and stalled and I was able to pull
in a safe area. I was very certain the problelm was the new condenser I had just installed. I had an old
Lucas condenser with me and some tools but not the right tools for this job. I suppose this also could have
been a Pertronix, or whatever. I did end up calling AAA, the US national road service but they never came.
I eventually got towed home but I just want to do as much as possible to get going again and be prepared for
future incidents.

[Hawksfield]

Hi
I carry a complete dizzy set up ready to go.
As have lumenition optronic I have installed marked up electrical connections for ease of fitting. With tools required.ive had this in boot for about 10 years.
Good old Lumenition.fitted for 25 years never failed.

[512BB]

I should add to what I have previously posted, that in over 40 years of continuous Elan ownership, I have never been dumped at the side of the road by a set of points, and have never heard of anyone who has.

Alas, the same cannot be said for electronic ignition. This board has been told of many occasions when that has failed, indeed, it has happened to me, twice, on a car I had not long owned. It will not happen again though, points fitted now. You know it makes sense.

Leslie

[Bitsilly]

Keep a small piece of wet and dry paper bent in half to run between the points. Dirty of stuck points is the only actual distributor related reason any of my old cars wouldn’t start.

[gjz30075]

Quite right Leslie. I ditched a dodgey Pertronix for a brand new Powermax points distributor but
unfortunately, the condenser took a dump. My 45 years owned Sprint has had points all of its
life and never let me down.

[h20hamelan]

The NAPA offerings from Echlin are very similar if not exact to that Powermax.
I might order a Powermax and see

What I have found is after some time/heat, the spring-mount ‘bushing’ for the points arm wears and after 500 miles the contact is offset and unusable.

[69S4]

Just suffered a condenser failure in France a couple of weeks ago. Not in the Elan but on a similar age motorcycle fitted with two sets of points - one for each cylinder. It was easy enough to diagnose - because I could run the engine and watch the points spark on the failed side. Not so easy with a distributor though. Anyway, my point - if you don't have a spare condenser with you good luck trying to get one. The local bike dealer actually laughed in my face when I told him what I was after. I ended up at some back street place who had much the same response but eventually found an old Honda one in a junk box that we managed to get working. So if you're on points chuck a spare into the tool kit.

[alan.barker]

After i had been let down several times with crap condensers from China i fitted a "Hall effect" to replace Points/Condenser.
No problems since but always carry in the Boot new Points and nos Condenser.
The last China Condenser only lasted 80kms.
Maybe a different thing i could have done was to fit Cooper S heavy csi 111 Points and good quality Condenser from Distributor Doctor. I used to do that many years ago when i hah a Twincam Cortina.
Alan

[69S4]

After i had been let down several times with crap condensers from China
The last China Condenser only lasted 80kms.

A good quality Condenser from Distributor Doctor.
Alan

That, I suspect, is what did for me in France. The one that failed was only about six months old and less than 1000 miles. Pity the Chinese don't put as much effort into the contents as they do the packaging.