Heater Valve...

[nomad]

Friends have been telling me that the current crop of Brit heater valves for other cars are junk so thought you folks might be interested in an alternative.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... sacat=6000

Currently changing one out so i'll let you know.

Kurt

[promotor]

Friends have been telling me that the current crop of Brit heater valves for other cars are junk so thought you folks might be interested in an alternative.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... sacat=6000

Currently changing one out so i'll let you know.

Kurt

It's good to see the threaded part that would screw into the head is brass - the aluminium ones screwed into an aluminium head are going to give some headaches down the line!

[Elanman99]

Friends have been telling me that the current crop of Brit heater valves for other cars are junk so thought you folks might be interested in an alternative.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... sacat=6000

Currently changing one out so i'll let you know.

Kurt

It's good to see the threaded part that would screw into the head is brass - the aluminium ones screwed into an aluminium head are going to give some headaches down the line!

But is it brass?

I looked at several of what appear to be standard images on the ebay listings and I think the threaded stem could be plated steel. There looks to be a blob of weld on the hexagon part and brass is pretty hard to 'weld'.

Ian

[Andy8421]

Brass can be gas welded as well as mig and tig.

[elans3]

I think it's plated steel too.

[2cams70]

It’s always best to use an appropriate sealant on such threads (eg. Loctite 567)

The sealant prevents contact of the threads with the coolant and makes for things being much, much easier to dismantle the next time.

[h20hamelan]

4 Seasons is typically okay-fair quality. I have used their blower motors in the +2 in-place of the original, and have one for the S4.
I wont comment on their heater-cores, as I believe they and rads etc are made in China. 4 Seasons still has USA and Mexico manufacturing

[nomad]

I have a couple of these valves that I was going to fit to Sprites and Midgets years ago. They are cad plated steel, not brass. Was already to tackle this job when I posted but discovered that I will have to raise the engine an inch or so to unscrew the old valve and raise it even more to fit the new. Runs into body panels. Sooooo, looking like I'll do it when I get a round Toit!

Kurt

[promotor]

I have a couple of these valves that I was going to fit to Sprites and Midgets years ago. They are cad plated steel, not brass. Was already to tackle this job when I posted but discovered that I will have to raise the engine an inch or so to unscrew the old valve and raise it even more to fit the new. Runs into body panels. Sooooo, looking like I'll do it when I get a round Toit!

Kurt

Thanks for clarifying. Steel is almost as good as brass to use in aluminium, rather than than the usual aluminium into aluminium that is currently available.

[billwill]

It’s always best to use an appropriate sealant on such threads (eg. Loctite 567)

The sealant prevents contact of the threads with the coolant and makes for things being much, much easier to dismantle the next time.

I prefer PTFE tape, much easier to be sure that you will be able to undo it later, on-the-road or wherever.

It is after all just plain plumbing.

[The Veg]

I fitted one of these in my Plus 2 a few years ago. Yes, it is plated steel and I used Teflon tape. Works a treat and no problems as yet. I've contemplated connecting it to the heater controls but haven't don't so as yet partly due to being lazy and partly because I live in a very warm region and heat is only needed for a small portion of the year, so opening and closing it under the bonnet before a drive is no big deal.