Driveshaft attached to transmission doing engine install?

[tdskip]

Well today is the day - engine/transmission mated and time to get them back in the car for the first time since 1993.

Do you recommend attaching the driveshaft to the transmission so it can slide back into the tunnel and toward the differential as one big unit?

OR

Easier to mate the driveshaft to transmission after the engine/transmission are in place?

Thank you all again for all of the help and encouragement.

[gjz30075]

Not certain it can be done as one unit. It's tough enough with the gearbox mated to the engine.

If you choose you second option, just lay the driveshaft in the tunnel, quite a way back, and after
the engine/trans are in the car, you'll have to remove the rh (passenger in US car) seat, pull back
the carpet on the tunnel and remove the large grommet,. That will allow you to grab the driveshaft
and put it in the tailshaft of the gearbox. Use some Vasoline on the slip yoke.

[tdskip]

Thank you for the very prompt reply and coaching. I’ll go ahead and leave the drive shaft separate but position as you suggested.

Thanks!

[steve lyle]

It can be done without messing with carpets or seats. Most easily before you have the lumps all the way back.

[SENC]

Agree with Greg. Assuming the diff is already installed and in place, you can lay the back of propshaft just back and beside it so it won't interfere with the gearbox extension entry. Once the gearbox is in place, as noted you can reach in (through the hole or from the front via the tunnel itself), shift it forward and locate it - you may have to twist is a bit to align the keys/grooves.

Do be careful not to slide it home with too much vigor - the driveshaft can bottom on and dislodge the plug in the propshaft yoke and lead to a leak.

I did some dry runs while out of the car to get a feel.

[tdskip]

Thank you gentlemen-will do a couple test fits as suggested, very much appreciate all the ideas.

[RichardHawkins]

I know you did not ask, but I find the job easier if the gearbox and engine are installed separately. I got in an awful tangle with the engine and gearbox together, and that was without the body in position.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

[englishmaninwales]

I know you did not ask, but I find the job easier if the gearbox and engine are installed separately. I got in an awful tangle with the engine and gearbox together, and that was without the body in position.

Hope this helps,

Richard Hawkins

+1
I found it much easier this way.

[Bigbaldybloke]

I’ve done it a couple of times and for me the easiest was with the car on axle stands, first fit the prop shaft to the diff. Trial fit the gearbox to the engine to make sure the clutch plate is centralised and the spigot bearing goes together ok. Then split the gearbox from the engine and install it into the car and support the front on a jack. Then install the engine, you may want to slide the exhaust manifold onto the studs in the head as you lower the engine in place as there is limited space. You need about three arms at this point to insert the cover plate in place between the engine and gearbox and put the bolts in! I have removed the studs and use bolts instead on the exhaust manifold. It’s much easier and as I don’t frequently remove the engine I’m not worried about stripping the threads in the head. Don’t forget to fill the gearbox with oil once it’s all installed, if you do it first the oil runs out the rear as you lower the box in!

[tdskip]

Holy cow - well this was an experience. 2.5 hours and not installed yet. We decided to take a break for the day and have at it tomorrow. Top of the gearbox kept fouling the tunnel no matter what we tried. Cripes!

Now having tried installing the engine/gearbox there is no way the prop shaft could be in place....

[SENC]

Holy cow - well this was an experience. 2.5 hours and not installed yet. We decided to take a break for the day and have at it tomorrow. Top of the gearbox kept fouling the tunnel no matter what we tried. Cripes!

Now having tried installing the engine/gearbox there is no way the prop shaft could be in place....

Yes, it can be a bugger. I did it by myself a couple years ago and struggled for the longest time with the bellhouse jam... then all of a sudden it slid in like butter. With a fresh start tomorrow, you may have no issue. Good luck!

[tdskip]

Hi Henry, thanks for the encouragement.

I just cant seem to work out how to get the stud that the gearbox shifter screws on to low enough to slide the gearbox back into place, it keeps fouling the top of the tunnel. The front of the engine is as low as it can be at that point but I still can't clear the tunnel.

[prezoom]

Move the tail shaft to the lower left corner of the tunnel, then roll the engine to the right and lift the tail shaft into the tunnel. Rolling the engine lowers the shifter boss, which should give you enough clearance to slide the gearbox into the tunnel. Install the drive shaft before you bolt the engine and trans in place with engine a little bit forward, and the input shaft yoke should align with the hole on the right side of the tunnel, making it easier to slip the yoke over the tail shaft.

[SENC]

May or may not help, but I remember wishing I had some pictures of how someone else did it just to confirm I wasn't way off on my angles or thinking - so I'll find and post a series here for you. There is a definite point where having someone below to maneuver the gearbox extension into the tunnel would be very helpful as the person on the hoist inches down and in, down and in, down and in. There is a little sweetspot there where the angles and lengths and widths all line up, but solo I only found it by accident. So these pictures aren't the solution, but may reaffirm you're in the right ballpark and to just keep tweaking.

[SENC]