Engine Installation With or Without Head Fitted
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It's easier with the head off.
And very much easier to deal with the exhaust manifold (headers) as they can then be inserted into the gap after the block is installed & before the head is put on.
With a complete engine install you need to put the exhaust manifold into the engine bay first and it ges in the way. It was OK with the old style cast iron manifold and downpipe since that was short.
And very much easier to deal with the exhaust manifold (headers) as they can then be inserted into the gap after the block is installed & before the head is put on.
With a complete engine install you need to put the exhaust manifold into the engine bay first and it ges in the way. It was OK with the old style cast iron manifold and downpipe since that was short.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
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It is MUCH easier with the head off. Exhaust manifold in particular, engine mounts, bell housing bolts and starter motor.
But I always do it with the head on, as I'd prefer to get the head installed, cams properly timed etc which I believe is best done out of the car.
Paul
But I always do it with the head on, as I'd prefer to get the head installed, cams properly timed etc which I believe is best done out of the car.
Paul
Turning money into noise!
- toomspj
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toomspj wrote:But I always do it with the head on, as I'd prefer to get the head installed, cams properly timed etc which I believe is best done out of the car.
There is no question that adjusting cam timing is much better done with the complete engine outside of the vehicle. However once that is done with offset dowels or adjustable cam sprockets I take the head off and install the block and gearbox as a unit. Lifting the block and gearbox with a chain sling bolted into cylinder head stud holes is by far the safest way to install, nothing will slip and get away from you. Recovery of cam timing is not a problem after initial set up outside of the vehicle.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
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CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Just depends how old your knees and back are...
John
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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It's faff with the head on but I managed to do it single handedly so it's not so tricky.
What would really put me off doing it with the head off is that it's so much easier to fit the head and get everything 'right' with the engine on a stand. I really would not consider doing it any other way but, as usual, each to their own.
Jon
What would really put me off doing it with the head off is that it's so much easier to fit the head and get everything 'right' with the engine on a stand. I really would not consider doing it any other way but, as usual, each to their own.
Jon
- jono
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Back in the 70s and 80s I was building and changing engines pretty reguarly and always did it with a complete engine. The extra trouble of fitting the exhaust (full race big bore) was far outweighed by not having to bend over the wing to fit the head and retime. But each to his own, whichever way suits you best.
- stevebroad
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I also have removed and refitted a Sprint engine with the head attached, working entirely on my own. The exhaust does get in the way, but, as some others have said, I found it much easier to cope with the timing chain etc with the engine out of the car.
Mike
Mike
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TroonSprint - Fourth Gear
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