Engine mounts
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I recently diagnosed a tapping noise under the bonnet to the airbox rattling against the starter solenoid, I found that the nearside engine mount (exhaust side) is failing hence the engine "lean". Over the years I have learned to treat the mountings almost as service items but this one has only managed at most 5,000 miles. The previous one didn't last long either. (Offside mounting has outlasted two N/S ones so far, I'm assuming exhaust heat affects N/S)
So.. I purchased a pair of TTR mountings and was surprised to find that the uprating appears to be rubbery gunge in the gap between the rubber and top of the mounting. My question before I spend a few hours fitting them is does anyone have experience of them and could this mod (I was expecting uprated rubber to be honest) cause other issues due to restriction of engine movement/vibration? I also bought a g/box mount to make a set.
Thanks for all opinions.
Cheers,
Ian
So.. I purchased a pair of TTR mountings and was surprised to find that the uprating appears to be rubbery gunge in the gap between the rubber and top of the mounting. My question before I spend a few hours fitting them is does anyone have experience of them and could this mod (I was expecting uprated rubber to be honest) cause other issues due to restriction of engine movement/vibration? I also bought a g/box mount to make a set.
Thanks for all opinions.
Cheers,
Ian
- ianf
- Second Gear
- Posts: 156
- Joined: 06 Jan 2006
This is a common mod for mounts/bushes with holes in them. If done proeperly, as TTR's ones should be, the mod is effective.
An alternative is to use these:
http://www.dalek.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1 ... Milton.pdf
However, you may have to modify the carb side mount in order to clear master cylinders (UK RHD models)
An alternative is to use these:
http://www.dalek.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/1 ... Milton.pdf
However, you may have to modify the carb side mount in order to clear master cylinders (UK RHD models)
- stevebroad
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 844
- Joined: 08 Mar 2004
Ian,
I posted on this a short while ago.
My engine mounts failed after 5 years - without the engine turning (rebuild time)!
The standard mounts just ain't up to it !
I purchased several pairs of standard mounts but they were either de-bonding or just not vulcanised correctly.
I purchased some 'heavy duty' ones (with the gap 'on top' completely filled in)and the problem has gone away ,( for the time being !)
Can't help thinking though, that as you say, they will need replacing again in the near / mid term, future.
Also not quite sure what the gaps are in-filled with ?
If it's the original compound, fine, but if they have just been in-filled with some sort of silicone material, they'll probably take a little longer to fail ! This is obviously done as an after thought, because you can see the joints where material has been added.
The standard ones are next to useless.
Problem is the H/d ones are ?50, standards ?17 a pair !
Several people must have the same issue, as suggestions received ranged from advising to: 'cut the fibreglass footwell and lower it' or 'add a steel plate to stop the carbs rubbing on the footwell' - obviously all caused by engine mount issues (in the main).
I came to the same conclusion as you - 'Service Item' - ugh!
Regards,
Phil.
I posted on this a short while ago.
My engine mounts failed after 5 years - without the engine turning (rebuild time)!
The standard mounts just ain't up to it !
I purchased several pairs of standard mounts but they were either de-bonding or just not vulcanised correctly.
I purchased some 'heavy duty' ones (with the gap 'on top' completely filled in)and the problem has gone away ,( for the time being !)
Can't help thinking though, that as you say, they will need replacing again in the near / mid term, future.
Also not quite sure what the gaps are in-filled with ?
If it's the original compound, fine, but if they have just been in-filled with some sort of silicone material, they'll probably take a little longer to fail ! This is obviously done as an after thought, because you can see the joints where material has been added.
The standard ones are next to useless.
Problem is the H/d ones are ?50, standards ?17 a pair !
Several people must have the same issue, as suggestions received ranged from advising to: 'cut the fibreglass footwell and lower it' or 'add a steel plate to stop the carbs rubbing on the footwell' - obviously all caused by engine mount issues (in the main).
I came to the same conclusion as you - 'Service Item' - ugh!
Regards,
Phil.
Philip.
UK '72 Sprint DHC
Sometimes my Lotus makes me cry.
UK '72 Sprint DHC
Sometimes my Lotus makes me cry.
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l10tus - Third Gear
- Posts: 479
- Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Used to have some thing simalar with my +2.
I've always used Chris Neil engine mounts which tbh look like stock ford items but decent quality, i found with mine the mounts didn't like the exhaust being so close and before i fitted a heat shield i'd go through an Engine mount every 6 months or so when used as an Every day (joys of a Stainless Manifold)
I also had Clutch issues when i got stuck in traffic so i ended up having the Manifold Ceramic coated and added a few heat shields.
That said i know Rubber mounts etc are not even close to the quality of the 70's most Ebay mounts are Chinese rubbish so you do get what you pay for.
(btw if you do buy uprated Ford items be aware that the Mounts on a Weber engine are different on one side)
I've always used Chris Neil engine mounts which tbh look like stock ford items but decent quality, i found with mine the mounts didn't like the exhaust being so close and before i fitted a heat shield i'd go through an Engine mount every 6 months or so when used as an Every day (joys of a Stainless Manifold)
I also had Clutch issues when i got stuck in traffic so i ended up having the Manifold Ceramic coated and added a few heat shields.
That said i know Rubber mounts etc are not even close to the quality of the 70's most Ebay mounts are Chinese rubbish so you do get what you pay for.
(btw if you do buy uprated Ford items be aware that the Mounts on a Weber engine are different on one side)
Chris
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Grizzly - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1857
- Joined: 13 Jun 2010
(btw if you do buy uprated Ford items be aware that the Mounts on a Weber engine are different on one side)
Unless you have a Spyder chassis.
Mike
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TroonSprint - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 507
- Joined: 24 Nov 2011
So at last we have a use for all those failed doughnuts: slice them up and bang them into the gaps of the engine mountings.
It seems the problem is worse with the SE-Sprint exhaust manifolds as I've never had one fail quickly; yet.
It seems the problem is worse with the SE-Sprint exhaust manifolds as I've never had one fail quickly; yet.
Meg
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
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Quart Meg Miles - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1175
- Joined: 03 Oct 2012
Dear All,
Thanks for your replies guys, I may give Chris Neil a call, I'm sure there is more than one supplier of "standard" mounts and as is mentioned there are some poor quality parts of all types on sale as well as good quality stuff. Pleased there are no warnings of "don't use these things", I'm a happy user of TTR suspension and rear stub axles by the way.
Love the Donut idea though, wondered what I was going to do with the pile of them at the back of the garage (I swapped to Mick Miller drive shafts about 10 years ago due to rapid wear of donuts - hmm might call Sue as well), it sounds like a great roadside repair on a tour. I might experiment to test the idea as I have a perfect test-bed in the garage
Thanks again,
Ian
PS looking forward to NEC this weekend
Thanks for your replies guys, I may give Chris Neil a call, I'm sure there is more than one supplier of "standard" mounts and as is mentioned there are some poor quality parts of all types on sale as well as good quality stuff. Pleased there are no warnings of "don't use these things", I'm a happy user of TTR suspension and rear stub axles by the way.
Love the Donut idea though, wondered what I was going to do with the pile of them at the back of the garage (I swapped to Mick Miller drive shafts about 10 years ago due to rapid wear of donuts - hmm might call Sue as well), it sounds like a great roadside repair on a tour. I might experiment to test the idea as I have a perfect test-bed in the garage
Thanks again,
Ian
PS looking forward to NEC this weekend
- ianf
- Second Gear
- Posts: 156
- Joined: 06 Jan 2006
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