Sump gaskets
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Hi all,
my sump is a bit leaky and oily and I,ve decided to replace the cork gasket with a Cometic one.
My question is:
When I dropped the sump the cork gasket came away with the sump.
There was a thin paper gasket left on the engine block face. What is this? I thought there was only the cork one between block and sump.
I've wiped it and left it.
Couldn't find a mention of it in the workshop manual. Don't have the parts book handy to check.
Suggestions please.
ta
Paul
my sump is a bit leaky and oily and I,ve decided to replace the cork gasket with a Cometic one.
My question is:
When I dropped the sump the cork gasket came away with the sump.
There was a thin paper gasket left on the engine block face. What is this? I thought there was only the cork one between block and sump.
I've wiped it and left it.
Couldn't find a mention of it in the workshop manual. Don't have the parts book handy to check.
Suggestions please.
ta
Paul
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SADLOTUS - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 517
- Joined: 19 Oct 2003
Very curious, there should only be the pair of laminated cork gaskets running along the sides of the crankcase and the rubber inserts in the front and rear seal housings. If the cork gasket delaminated when you removed the sump I doubt it would have the appearance of paper.
Russ Newton
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
Elan +2S (1971)
Elite S2 (1962)
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CBUEB1771 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1545
- Joined: 09 Nov 2006
+1 for the Cometic sump gasket.
Using info from this wonderful forum, I used Cometic gaskets throughout the last engine build and have a pretty much leak-proof engine (or maybe I don't rev it enough?). I used a smear of silicone gasket on the sump gasket surfaces, weighted the sump gently and left it for a day or so to allow the silicone to cure before tightened the sump fixings. Oiling one surface prevents the gasket from sticking to both block & sump. Pretty much the same procedure works for the cam cover.
I also used Kent silicone gaskets for front and rear bearing seals, with a leak-proof result. The thickness of the Kent rear(?) seal was (carefully!) reduced on a grinder to fit the housing. A tiny dab of sealant at the junction of sump & bearing gasket ensured a good seal.
I now have a cork-free engine and (some) rusty sump bolts!
Using info from this wonderful forum, I used Cometic gaskets throughout the last engine build and have a pretty much leak-proof engine (or maybe I don't rev it enough?). I used a smear of silicone gasket on the sump gasket surfaces, weighted the sump gently and left it for a day or so to allow the silicone to cure before tightened the sump fixings. Oiling one surface prevents the gasket from sticking to both block & sump. Pretty much the same procedure works for the cam cover.
I also used Kent silicone gaskets for front and rear bearing seals, with a leak-proof result. The thickness of the Kent rear(?) seal was (carefully!) reduced on a grinder to fit the housing. A tiny dab of sealant at the junction of sump & bearing gasket ensured a good seal.
I now have a cork-free engine and (some) rusty sump bolts!
- 7skypilot
- Second Gear
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 16 Nov 2010
Yep.
Delaminated cork gasket.
Ahem... probably from the gasket before last, as the current/last gasket is complete on both sides.
7skypilot - I also have the Cometic gasket for the cam gasket. Looking forward to a leak free engine, does that mean I have to worry about rust taking a hold on the chassis?
Still have a few jobs on my list... like my lists.
Delaminated cork gasket.
Ahem... probably from the gasket before last, as the current/last gasket is complete on both sides.
7skypilot - I also have the Cometic gasket for the cam gasket. Looking forward to a leak free engine, does that mean I have to worry about rust taking a hold on the chassis?
Still have a few jobs on my list... like my lists.
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SADLOTUS - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 517
- Joined: 19 Oct 2003
Crikey Paul, have you upgraded your garage space.....or what ????
Richard
'72 Sprint
'72 Sprint
- richardcox_lotus
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1102
- Joined: 11 Jul 2004
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