Got a bad feeling........

[Geoffers71]

...a very bad feeling Hoping that I can get some reassurance on here.....please !
I'm fitting the temperature sender to the thermostat housing and I find there is nothing to prevent the bulb from slipping deep into the head, no step or ridge for it to rest against and provide a secure location. Here's what I have...

Is this all there is, or is there something missing? For example is there something that fits over the bulb before pushing it into the housing?
A bit of background. The engine is not the original for the car and it came with the brass angle fitting shown sitting on the thermostat housing in the picture. This is not original fitment for the Elan, but I believe is usually found on the Plus 2, which does not use the capillary tube fitment and has an electrical temperature sender instead. This may mean that the head at least is from a Plus 2. If so, my worry is that the thermostat housing is different somehow and does not accept the sender bulb. I hope I'm wrong and there is a simple answer. If I'm right then I'm stuffed and don't know what to do next. Can anyone reassure me that I'm worrying about nothing ! Need a bit of good news at the mo to lift this dark cloud that's sitting over me

[Mazzini]

You have a bit missing. Try Matty or QED. It's a couple of quids worth, no need to worry.

[el-saturn]

here it is - if you drive by , i can give u 1 for free sandy j

[Geoffers71]

Aaaah, yes of course...silly me Actually when I checked the parts list, something I should have done before panicking and rushing into print, I can see the part I don't have. Got to blame my addled brain! Think I'm putting too much time in on the Elan at the moment, need to give it a rest......maybe Anyway many thanks for your help again chaps, much appreciated
BTW Ray, may I ask where you got the two bits of cooling pipe that join the thermostat housing to the rad via the Ali tube? None of the usual traders have them.

[Craven]

Hi,
Sorry, but not quite that straight forward, I see you have the wrong nut on the thermostat capillary.
The part missing is as shown but this requires a female nut, looks as if you need a different solution.
Ron.

[ricarbo]

It looks as though you'll be buying a new temperature guage of the right type. The cap for the bulb needs a thread on the inside, not the outside like yours. If I remember correctly, they normally come with the part Sandy shows and also the small copper sealing washer that is slipped onto the bulb, which, being of an unusual size is otherwise hard to find.
regards
Richard

[Geoffers71]

Oh no!!!!! That looks as if I DO have the wrong end, a male when it should be a female What the f$&@*#% is that all about? Why is my end different? Is there a male/female adapter available that would solve the problem? They're just taper threaded plumbers fittings aren't they? Hope I don't have to buy a new temp/oil gauge, they're a bit pricey

[john.p.clegg]

I can't tell from the photo but doesn't the brass fitting just screw into the thermostat housing?

John

[el-saturn]

oooooops - my idea works only with a new turned adapter, I?m afraid ---- OR taking the bulb off, adding some
adequate gas and welding the open bulb AFTER the propoer nut has been added. a mini water gauge will also work (change dial) and the above work will also cost at least a hundred quid - good luck, sandy

[ricarbo]

Well, if it's like mine the adapter that screws into the aluminium head is steel and has a taper thread. The other side of the adapter has a parallel thread and the seal is made by the small copper washer I mentioned, between the bulb shoulder and the adapter, I suppose it is possible to imagine an additional adapter being added or a special one being procured, but I have no knowledge of these, or how they would seal. Perhaps someone else knows an easy answer. I still think the proper answer is to get a replacement guage of the right type. Many of the similar guages have the wrong oil pressure range on them anyway. Ours should be 0-60 psi. Many are 0-100.
regards
Richard

[Craven]

Hi,
If you can source the correct nut, from an old gauge, I have overcome your dilemma as follows although not a particularly sound engineering solution and can almost hear the howls of derision now, but it does work.
Cut the present nut in half to remove from capillary, take the replacement female nut and make a single cut/slot along it just wide enough to allow it to be fitted to the capillary.
THE WATER TIGHT SEAL IS BETWEEN THE ADAPTOR AND THE FRONT OF THE FLANGE OF THE BULB, the nut just pressurises this joint.
For what its worth.
Ron.

[john.p.clegg]

Richard

Past your bedtime mate,I think we're talking temperature gauges at the moment...

Geoffers

Take your pick...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190582532934? ... EBIDX%3AIT


John

[ort]

you will be able to get a NPT male to BSP female adapter from hydraulic suppliers it will probably need the bore opening out and a shoulder machining for the sealing washer

adapter.jpg (10.67 KiB) Viewed 951 times

[collins_dan]

I will look tonight, but I think there is a larger male/female adapter that screws in first, the capillary slides through it, then the nut that you have tightens into that. Is there another large adapter nut somewhere in you box of parts?

The first engine shot on this thread gives a good idea what you are looking for.
lotus-talk-f50/elan-engine-bays-stock-modified-restored-and-26r-t21231.html

Dan

[Craven]

Hi,
A modified or purpose made adaptor would be ideal, but be careful you don?t finish up measuring the head temperature and not the water temperature.
Ron.