s4 head

PostPost by: diablo » Sun Oct 05, 2014 4:27 pm

Hi all
I am rebuilding my engine , bottom is finished , the engine on the engine stand .Valves are fitted , my question is : is it easier to continue the work on the head ( camshafts , valves shimming ...) on the bench or with the head fitted on the engine ?
Thanks
JCL
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PostPost by: prezoom » Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:04 pm

Funny you should post this. Last night, in my head, I was designing a fixture to support the head solidly on the bench, so I could do exactly what you are about to do. I think it would much easier to perform the needed tasks while either sitting or standing at the bench.

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PostPost by: patrics » Sun Oct 05, 2014 8:13 pm

Hi
I fit my engine complete including carbs

Regards
Steve
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PostPost by: oldchieft » Sun Oct 05, 2014 9:11 pm

A no brainer, do as much as you can at bench hight.

It is much less tiring and a lot less aggravation from fishing for dropped tools and small parts.

See my post on: -
lotus-carbs-f40/help-with-webers-t31195.html

This job gave me grief on the car, and was a doodle on the bench.

If you can do it before fitting it to the car it is easier and you have less risk of paint damage.

Jon the Chief.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Oct 06, 2014 5:35 am

Try fitting a timing disc to the crankshaft with the engine in the car...

John :wink:
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Oct 06, 2014 6:24 am

I always do all the head work on the bench and then fit the head to the engine on a stand and then put the complete unit in the car. I would only pull the head off the engine in the car if I had a quick head gasket replacement and no other work required.

A couple of photos of the head stand I use below. The head can be fitted to it either way up. The posts go through the outer head bolt holes and hold it very stably, you can clamp the feet to the bench with G clamps if you wanted to, if your doing something requiring heavy work on the head but it is very stable without that. Some tape on the brackets stops the head face being scratched.

cheers
Rohan
PS John - I made myself some small diameter timing discs by printing a scaled picture of a full size timing disc onto a printable label CD. It works great and it can be fixed to the front of the engine or the cam shaft itself with the engine in situ :D

head on stand.JPG and


head stands.JPG and
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PostPost by: diablo » Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:50 am

Hi all
Thank you very much for your suggestion , I shall do it ( it was my first idea ) on the bench .
JCL
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Mon Oct 06, 2014 6:18 pm

Maybe this is a myth concerning distorsion in aluminium OHC cylinder heads, but can anyone confirm you will get the same (or very close) cam follower clearances when shimmed with the cylinder head on the bench compared to when the head is fully torqued down?
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PostPost by: Elanconvert » Mon Oct 06, 2014 6:40 pm

englishmaninwales wrote:Maybe this is a myth concerning distorsion in aluminium OHC cylinder heads, but can anyone confirm you will get the same (or very close) cam follower clearances when shimmed with the cylinder head on the bench compared to when the head is fully torqued down?


not sure about twink heads, but with imp sohc I always fit head and torque down before shimming......just in case......
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Oct 06, 2014 8:04 pm

I find they sometimes ( but not always) close up a thou or 2 when the head is bolted down. I normally set the clearances at the top end of the range and only adjust when bolted down if I have to if they shift to far.

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Rohan
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PostPost by: Chancer » Tue Oct 07, 2014 8:37 am

I shimmed a pair of Stag heads on the bench d?cades ago and the clearances were all over the place after they were fitted to the block and torqued down, I have done all alloy heads in situ since then and never noticed clearances changing after running in.
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