Engine mounting bush replacement methodology

PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sat Jul 05, 2014 12:54 pm

I will soon have to install TTR uprated engine bushes.

Please, do you have advices on how to proceed to replace at home the engine bushes?

I would like to avoid disasters...
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:30 am

I lift the car and put it on axle stands.
I fear the replacement of these bushes.
The one on the exhaust side is dead so when i will put a lift underneath the sump to remove the bush, when i will put the new bush in place the holes wo?t match as my engine sits now lower than it should
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:34 am

You see? As the bush died the engine mount fell down the U

One bolt was removed cause i cleaned my ground negative earth cable...

Come on! Hit me with your old tricks and advices!
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:45 am

I just put a jack under the engine sump ( with a block of wood to spread the load) on the relevant side and jack the engine to take the load of the mount before removing and to get alignment with the new mount before fitting the 2 bolts between the mount and the mounting arm in your case with a spyder chassis.

I also drill out the 2 mount holes by about 1 mm to make alignment for fitting of the bolts easier.

Once you have one bolt fitted to the mount from the arm on the engine you may have to make a small adjustment of the engine up or down to align the second hole so you can slide its bolt in

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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:34 pm

This bush design is crap...
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:36 pm

Thanks rohan :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 2:04 pm

That looks like the carb side "high lift" mount. If its upside down in a Spyder chassis it results in low lift !! I thought for the spyder chassis in the Elan the arms from the engine were sized so you could use the same standard engine mount on both sides?

If you had these mounts on both sides then the engine would be lower than it should be?

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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 4:07 pm

Not a single clue!

I thought bushes were different if you have a 701m engine and the same if you have a 711m...?

Let?s clear this out cause i m ordering from ttr the new bushes!!!!
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PostPost by: elj221c » Sun Jul 06, 2014 5:46 pm

Spyder instructions.jpg and


These are the instructions I had from spyder in '82.

Standard Ford 105E (Anglia) for both sides. No change for me with the 711 block I used at the time..
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 6:48 pm

Thanks you all. This forum is great!
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:14 pm

Pistacchio sprint 72 wrote:This bush design is crap...


Is that upside down?

I thought the closed part of the U bend goes at the top so that if the rubber fails the engine does not actually fall out.
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Sun Jul 06, 2014 11:16 pm

billwill wrote:
Pistacchio sprint 72 wrote:This bush design is crap...


Is that upside down?

I thought the closed part of the U bend goes at the top so that if the rubber fails the engine does not actually fall out.


In spyder applications it's fitted as per pic, ie upside down. And yes it is a terrible design, designed to fail.

Filling the gap with RTV silicone might extend the life a little.
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:45 am

Yep indeed. That?s what TTR offer :mrgreen:
They must have figured it out !
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:49 am

It was a bit of a pain to swap. I had to unscrew the engine arm to slide the bush in place.

So i attached engine support arm and bush together but with loose screws, then i bolted the assembly in place, then tightened.

I also beleive the proximity of the exhaust heat might have weaken the rubber... So i put some kind of heat shield to protect the bush
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PostPost by: 69S4 » Sun Jul 20, 2014 10:31 am

Have I understood that correctly - Spyder say to use the engine mounts upside down, thereby bypassing the U bracket failsafe bit of the design? :shock:

So what happens when it does fail - does the sump just drop until it rests on the crossmember, taking out the heater valve on the way, or does something else catch? Or while you're wondering what the banging noise is does the weight of the engine just bludgeon its way past everything and end up in the road? :(

If that's the only way the mounts fit I'd be looking very closely at adding my own U bend safety bracket over the top of the mount. With the quality of some of the repro rubber available these days it makes me grateful for buying a repacement Lotus "chassis" rather than a Spyder one.
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