Valve timing

PostPost by: jeff jackson » Thu Aug 29, 2013 8:38 pm

Hi All,
I have now assembled the head after a skim and a broken cam cover stud removal. I have put the head back on and torqued it down. All tappet clearances are good.
As I have had the head skimmed, I am well aware that the valve timing will be all to c@ck. I have Miles Wilkins book where he shows a DTI (Dial Test Indicator) on number four exhaust tappet (bucket).
I have a DTI, but I am mystified how on earth you can get the DTI plunger on the tappet, I just don't seem to have the room. The DTI is not THAT big and the cam lobe covers most of the tappet.
Can this operation be done with the DTI on the cam lobe?
One last thing, I also have a timing disc. Every time I try to move the engine by the crank bolt the disc moves. The timing disc is only plastic and I am worried about breaking it. How tight can it go?

Sorry if there are two questions in this thread but I am trying to do things by the book and it is the first time I have done this.

Kind regards
Jeff 72+2
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PostPost by: AHM » Thu Aug 29, 2013 9:16 pm

Big washers in front and behind the disc to spread the load.


jeff jackson wrote:Can this operation be done with the DTI on the cam lobe?

No - But it can be done with a "..cigarette-paper or 0.001" feeler under the heel of the cam. When the cigarette-paper or feeler is just trapped by the cam, the valve is just about to open." according to David Vizard in 'Tunig twin cam Fords'
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Fri Aug 30, 2013 2:38 am

Jeff,

One of the things I did to make cam timing easier with a degree wheel was to remove the crank pulley bolt and drill and tap the center of the head for a 1/4" bolt. I then used an aluminum step washer I had laying about (or you could have one turned up on a lathe) to act as a pilot and screwed the degree wheel to the end of the crank bolt after it was reinstalled. Using an end wrench on the crank bolt, you will not disturb the degree wheel.

As for the dial indicator, the one I have allows me to just contact the edge of the tappet, so I don't have any ideas there other than to look for another DTI. :(
Steve

Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow

Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Fri Aug 30, 2013 5:46 am

My DTI has a long thin extension on it...enables it to sit on the follower..screws in in place of the ball...can you cobble one up?

John :wink:
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PostPost by: jeff jackson » Mon Sep 02, 2013 6:44 pm

Hi All,
Thanks for the replies. I decided to go out and purchase a new lever type DTI, that just about gets in between the tappet and the cam lobe. Trouble is I can't find anywhere for the magnetic base to go!!
I have ordered a new base, and I am in the process of making a platform for it to sit on.
No wonder restorations of our cars take so long!
Big washers on the timing disc did the trick, so again thanks for the advice.

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Jeff 72+2
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PostPost by: AHM » Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:19 am

jeff jackson wrote:No wonder restorations of our cars take so long!


Well I did give you verbatim, the quick and easy method from one of the most respected engine builders. Up to you if you want to do it a more difficult way ;)
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