pan gasket sealer

[rdssdi]

I am about to replace my TC engine pan gaskets. It appears that the cork gasket on the sides of the pan were secured to the pan with something that appears to be RTV and the cork gaskets that are at each end are secured to the engine with the same. The opposing sides of each were sealed with something removable.

Any suggestions as to what sealers to use.

Bob

[rgh0]

Hi Bob

I use Loctite ( or Permatex they are the same company now owned by Henkel) No3 aviation gasket cement on both sides of the cork gasket. I put a small dab of silicone sealant in the corners where the round sections over the crank seals join the flat side sections. I normally use the Loctite high temperature red silicone sealant.
I normally stick the gaskets to the block and then coat their bottom sides and then put the sump pan back in place. Making a shaped wooden block to press the curved end sections into their grooves and hold them in place while they stick is helpful but not essential. You usually need to trim the ends of the curved sections a little so they fit snugly in place and against the flat side sections.

I clamp the sump in place gently ensuring I don't squeeze the gaskets out of place and then tighten down a second time 24 hours later once the gaskets have stuck more firmly in place. After a few hot cycles on the engine I would retighten the sump bolts again. Once a year I would go over the sump bolts to ensure they are still tight. I use hex socket head bolts rather than the standard bolts as its easy to get to them with a hex key to check they are tight with the engine and ancillaries in situ.

cheers
Rohan

[RichardHawkins]

Rohan,
Thanks for the information about sump gaskets. I know it was not aimed at me but useful just the same.

Sorry to read about the fire, and hope the damage is not as bad as it looked.

Regards,
Richard Hawkins

[rdssdi]

Thanks

I used RTV on one side and Hylomar on the other. I did use the RTV silicon on the corners and the small cork pieces did need trimming.

I tightened the sump watching closely that the gasket did not get flattened and squeeze out the sides.

I "degreed" the cams. The intake side was off by one tooth which is 10 degrees (10.129 or something like that). The cam timing "dots" on the sprockets did not line up. As I have been told those timing marks only work on cars without a shaved head and/or block. I assume my car had a machined head if not block also. I have found that a comprehensive valve timing is important.

It is my contention that my valves have been out of time for quite a while. At least since I had the the sprockets and chain replaced when the new cassette water pump was installed. The sprockets and chain prematurely wore out (300 miles!) as the small lubrication hole in the front cover was clogged with RTV. That was done by the specialist engine rebuilder who rebuilt the engine over 10 years ago. The car has never run well.

With the incorrect valve timing and improperly rebuilt carbs rectified, I look forward to a sorted car that runs as it was designed to. I will post a report as soon as all is up and running.

Bob

[Sea Ranch]

Awesome. We look forward to the report

Randy