Sump/front cover bolts

[bertavfc]

Hi, I'm currently going through the pain of replacing the water pump on my '69 +2S, having only owned the car a week it's not the start I was hoping for but a great way to understand the inner workings better. The head has been pulled (and apart from the crank pulley not being notched) it's going well, I'm in the process of removing the sump but I can seem to get the front bolts (that bolt to the front cover) off, the flange is too close to get a socket or a spanner to the 7/16 heads, I'm reluctant to bend the flange to gain access, any tips?, I've opted for the Burton revised cassette assemby for the new pump, as the job is so involved I like to improve as much as I can while I'm there, new timing chain/tensioner ect, best regards, Rob.

[nebogipfel]

Hi, I'm currently going through the pain of replacing the water pump on my '69 +2S, having only owned the car a week it's not the start I was hoping for but a great way to understand the inner workings better. The head has been pulled (and apart from the crank pulley not being notched) it's going well, I'm in the process of removing the sump but I can seem to get the front bolts (that bolt to the front cover) off, the flange is too close to get a socket or a spanner to the 7/16 heads, I'm reluctant to bend the flange to gain access, any tips?, I've opted for the Burton revised cassette assemby for the new pump, as the job is so involved I like to improve as much as I can while I'm there, new timing chain/tensioner ect, best regards, Rob.

Yes they are a bit tight. I find a thin socket (usually 1/4" drive) works OK. If not you are unlikely to do any harm by giving the socket a gentle tap to seat it fully on the head.

Don't forget to establish TDC and mark your front pulley

It would be interesting to hear about your pump conversion and the fitting thereof. It's unfortunate that your pump has let you down early in your Elan ownership and although it is considered the achilles heel of the twinc, pumps aren't usually a huge problem.

FWIW I think the Plus 2S is the nicest Plus 2 and Lotus built some very good cars in '69

PS I think some folk change the sump bolts to cap heads, but I don't think it should really be necessary.

[CBUEB1771]

Flex sockets work for me, they generally have a slightly smaller OD than a standard socket.

[bertavfc]

Hi, thanks for the replies, I managed to free said bolts and the front cover and backplate are now off, I managed to establish TDC by the key way and have notched the pulley as per the front cover. I can imagine it's tricky to refit the timing chain as the front cover has to be put back first before the head to obtain a good seal, add that to the fact my exhaust cam when in TDC position has a habit of springing back at the lightest touch it looks to be a fiddle, but I love a challenge, all the best, Rob.

[CBUEB1771]

I managed to establish TDC by the key way and have notched the pulley as per the front cover.

Notching the crank pulley to match the front cover TDC mark will give a reasonable indication of TDC. Given that the cylinder head and perhaps the cylinder block have been faced at some point in the past, true TDC will be off by a bit. There are many threads you can search on here for more accurate techniques to establish TDC markings.

[ericbushby]

Hello Rob,
I used a extended 7/16 socket with a 3/8 drive made by Teng Tools.
It is 1 3/4 " long, fits snugly and clears the flange. You may need a proper socket in order to adjust the torque when refitting. Best of luck,
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE Type 45 DHC

[rgh0]

When you put the sump back on use hex socket head set screws - much easier to get at next time and also easier to check they are tight with the engine in place using a long ball headed hex key.

cheers
Rohan

[alexblack13]

When you put the sump back on use hex socket head set screws - much easier to get at next time and also easier to check they are tight with the engine in place using a long ball headed hex key.

cheers
Rohan

Second that! Exactly what I did too. Thinking of doing them all.

Just about to replace the front pulley right now too... Slight wear & pitting = small leak past the seal...

Al' .....

[alexblack13]

Meant to say now is the time to accurately check & set the engine's TDC. Using a dial test Indicator on No 1 piston. Carefully check the dead zone..Between where needle stops rising and begins to fall again.. Needle stationary almost. set DTI into the middle of the dead zone by rotating engine accordingly, then mark the pulley oppo' the timing mark on the front cover.. Accurately as poss'...

Shaving the head or block will not affect the TDC position.


Al' ....

[CBUEB1771]

Shaving the head or block will not affect the TDC position.

Quite right, I had gotten ahead of myself and was thinking about cam timing which will change when the block or head are surfaced.

[john.p.clegg]

If you have a timing degree disc fixed to the crank it is generally easier to find xx degrees BTDC and xx degrees ATDC with the use of some calibrated "stick" down the bores,try aiming for 90,this should give you a more accurate figure for TDC,10,20,30 etc..

John

[CBUEB1771]

If you have a timing degree disc fixed to the crank it is generally easier to find xx degrees BTDC and xx degrees ATDC with the use of some calibrated "stick" down the bores,try aiming for 90,this should give you a more accurate figure for TDC,10,20,30 etc..

John

Calibrated sticks, sometimes called dial indicators, are very useful. Using a dial indicator and degree disc my preference is set up the indicator to roughly read "0.00" very close to TDC. Then I go back and forth between 0.020" below 0.00", before and after TDC, adjusting the position of the degree disc until you get the same number of degrees from 0 degrees at the two -0.020" positions. This reduces the dead band error when you just try to find the maximum indication on the dial indicator.

[prezoom]

A quick way to check for TDC, is to take an old spark plug, knock the center out and thread the the inside of the plug. Install the threaded spark plug into the number one cylinder. It makes it easier if you remove all the other spark plugs. Turn the engine up to as close to TDC on the number one cylinder as you think you can. Then gently thread the bolt down to just touch the top of the piston. Back the crankshaft off just a little, 10 0r 20 degrees, then turn the bolt in a couple of turns. Then rotate very gently, the crankshaft back towards TDC. When the crankshaft stops turning, mark the front pulley with an easily identified mark. Then turn the crankshaft back, in the opposite direction, all the way until the crankshaft stops turning. Make another mark. Half the distance between these marks is TDC. You can then see if the factory groove in the pulley matches up with the timing mark on the front cover. This method works well with the engine in the car, where you cannot readily see the timing degrees on a degree wheel. Make adjustments as required.

Rob Walker
26-4889

[elansprint71]

It's not necessary to remove the sump in order to change the water pump.

All of the previously-given advice stands up, however.