Header Question
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This was sent to me a couple of weeks ago.
The question is: We are installing a 4 into 1 header, does the chassis need
to be relieved to accommodate it ( it seems that it does ) or is there a
special trick? It is the original S3 chassis. There was a comment in
Classic & Sportscar that indicated that one is not supposed to relieve it,
but it was vague.
jeff
The question is: We are installing a 4 into 1 header, does the chassis need
to be relieved to accommodate it ( it seems that it does ) or is there a
special trick? It is the original S3 chassis. There was a comment in
Classic & Sportscar that indicated that one is not supposed to relieve it,
but it was vague.
jeff
-
jcocking - Second Gear
- Posts: 180
- Joined: 06 Sep 2003
I used 4-into-1 headers on my (former) race car without any chassis mods. The
installation of any headers in Elans is tricky though. Sometimes, you'd swear
there is just not room to do it. Mine came apart and there was a magic
sequence necessary to solve the puzzle.
Rod
installation of any headers in Elans is tricky though. Sometimes, you'd swear
there is just not room to do it. Mine came apart and there was a magic
sequence necessary to solve the puzzle.
Rod
-
rodbean - First Gear
- Posts: 27
- Joined: 17 Mar 2004
The answer is, if the chassis is in the way of the installed header, then
one or the other needs to be 'relieved'. Not all 4 into 1 headers come
from the same manufacturer or batch, some fit better than others.
Make sure that there is not a separate problem such as bad or incorrectly
installed engine mounts, missing or short spacers between the block and
left side mount, bent frame, etc.
If it is determined that the frame is in the way, the flange should be
curled back nicely (not cut away) so as not to cause stress risers and/or
reduced rigidity.
Making room for installation is a separate issue - don't cut or bend the
frame just to get the header onto the studs. Rather, loosen or undo engine
mounts, jack up & down, use prybars for side motion etc. Also make sure
exhaust studs are no longer than necessary.
Randall
Seattle
one or the other needs to be 'relieved'. Not all 4 into 1 headers come
from the same manufacturer or batch, some fit better than others.
Make sure that there is not a separate problem such as bad or incorrectly
installed engine mounts, missing or short spacers between the block and
left side mount, bent frame, etc.
If it is determined that the frame is in the way, the flange should be
curled back nicely (not cut away) so as not to cause stress risers and/or
reduced rigidity.
Making room for installation is a separate issue - don't cut or bend the
frame just to get the header onto the studs. Rather, loosen or undo engine
mounts, jack up & down, use prybars for side motion etc. Also make sure
exhaust studs are no longer than necessary.
Randall
Seattle
-
types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3406
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
I have an Elan S4/Se wjth a 4>2>1 manifold, the clearance between the branch
of it and the engine support is so little that the rubber has been burnt and
the engine was not supported so I had to make a steel sheet protection about
to make isolation between support and manifold . Since I done it all is
correct !
Amicalement,
Jacques
Elan S4/Se N?:9556
of it and the engine support is so little that the rubber has been burnt and
the engine was not supported so I had to make a steel sheet protection about
to make isolation between support and manifold . Since I done it all is
correct !
Amicalement,
Jacques
Elan S4/Se N?:9556
- Jacques
- New-tral
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 25 Jun 2016
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