STOP RUNNING WHEN HOT PART 2

[Guzzi]

Well the mystery continues

Replkaced the coindensor and points. Have a new coil and distributor cap.

BUT on the first run out did 6 miles and exactly the same. Sounded like a missfire and then stop no power.

Checked plugs and they were dry. Checked fuel at top of carb and looked ok

AHH any more ideas

[types26/36]

Just had a quick look over the thread (part 1) and it appears we are all looking at the electrical system, I realize you said "Checked fuel at top of carb and looked ok" but I am not too sure what that means but have you tried running without the fuel cap on in case there is a problem with the tank venting system.

[billwill]

I see no mention of putting a new ROTOR ARM in your distributor.


Failing rotor arms cause create the same symptoms as you describe.


The faulty arm looks fine, but shorts the sparks to the shaft.

Been there, done that, been rescued from it by a knowledgeable RAC man.

[Guzzi]

Yes put a new rotor arm on & openned the fuel cap so that there would not be a vacuum.

In terms of fuel i just took the bolt/cap off one of the top of the carbs, checked that the fuel filter was clear and then cranked the engine to witness the fuel coming out of the feed pipe and through the banjo bolt

Ahhhhh

[paddy]

Have you confirmed that the fuel level in the carbs is correct when it stops?

Paddy

[neilsjuke]

Repeat Try hot wiring the coil supply so cutting out the ignition low tension circuit
Neil

[bob_rich]

above idea of a hot wire sounds good. But if that fails check if you have a spark by placing the coil and or plug lead core wire close to an earth on an engine block ground point. It should be easy to get a 5 to 6mm spark as I suggested in my earlier post. At least that will confirm if it is electrical.

best of luck

Bob

[cdraper]

I suggest you fit a feul pressure gauge - this will confirm or eliminate your problem is or is not due to fuel.
In veryhot weather I had the same problem - it was vapour locking - probably in the fuel pump. The cure was a small electric pump fitted on the front inner wing next to the air intake pipe. This was fed by volts directly from the solinoid via a relay triggered by the brake light feed - hence through the ignition switch. Taking power from the ignition coil feed - as normal caused a major voltage drop!

[twincamman]

BEEN CHASING A FUEL PROBLEM FOR A BIT A WHILE AGO -----SIMILAR ---STARTS--RUNS --quits--wont start-wont run - will start-will run [gets the blaaas blaaaas--blaaas ] on pedal application after running the webers dry ---black plugs [you would think a plug that ran out of gas would be white ---but no ] retimed the buggar 10 times fretted checked evrything rebuilt the carbs re jetted and swapped carbs ---replaced coil still the same results -- fiddled- swore and rolled on the ground bitting the furniture AND THEN --replaced the electric fuel pump-[aircraft Spruce 100 bucks delivered-] faucet 480545] --the old one was just N.F.G after the years of use --its ALL good now -no interest etc yadda yadda ---ed