Timing Chain Adjustment
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I've owned my +2 for 3 years and done 10,000 pretty trouble-free miles during that time.
The (Weber) engine is tight and strong with 190 p.s.i. on all cylinders and does not leak oil (and hardly burns any).
However, I have only around 1/4" of thread on my timing chain adjuster so ideally I should be replacing the chain. There's no noise, etc and the chain is the correct tension. Sprockets look great.
I'd appreciate the view on how quickly I should be doing the work as I'd rather not be pulling the engine right now. I haven't needed to adjust the tensioner, but I've also had a chain snap on a 1967 230S Mercedes which meant I was greasy for some time afterwards fixing it (but the valves in the Merc are at 90 degrees so no valve or piston damage).
Cheers
The (Weber) engine is tight and strong with 190 p.s.i. on all cylinders and does not leak oil (and hardly burns any).
However, I have only around 1/4" of thread on my timing chain adjuster so ideally I should be replacing the chain. There's no noise, etc and the chain is the correct tension. Sprockets look great.
I'd appreciate the view on how quickly I should be doing the work as I'd rather not be pulling the engine right now. I haven't needed to adjust the tensioner, but I've also had a chain snap on a 1967 230S Mercedes which meant I was greasy for some time afterwards fixing it (but the valves in the Merc are at 90 degrees so no valve or piston damage).
Cheers
Last edited by Stuart+2 on Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Stuart - Sydney
1968 +2 50/1035
1968 +2 50/1035
- Stuart+2
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 18 Nov 2006
Stuart
Unless you have nothing to do and feel like pulling the engine out rather than driving it,I would just wait till other maintenance was needed........if it ain't broke don't fix it...?
Others may disagree..
John
Unless you have nothing to do and feel like pulling the engine out rather than driving it,I would just wait till other maintenance was needed........if it ain't broke don't fix it...?
Others may disagree..
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Stuart
Is yours a 1500 or 1600 block - On the 1600 block the adjuster goes in much further if you dont change to a special longer pivot. Even on 1500 engines there is a fair variation in the adjustment if the head and /or block is skimmed or line boring the crank or cam tunnels moves them closer.
The crank sprocket is the one that wears which is hard to see without dismantling the engine and could also contribute to a looser chain.
cheers
Rohan
Is yours a 1500 or 1600 block - On the 1600 block the adjuster goes in much further if you dont change to a special longer pivot. Even on 1500 engines there is a fair variation in the adjustment if the head and /or block is skimmed or line boring the crank or cam tunnels moves them closer.
The crank sprocket is the one that wears which is hard to see without dismantling the engine and could also contribute to a looser chain.
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8409
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Thanks John and Rohan.
Block is the original 1500 but it has obviously been rebuilt. At that compression something has been shaved and I can't believe that, with the quality of the work, the chain wouldn't have been done.
I think I'll wait until the clutch needs replacing before taking a closer look. It's on its last adjustment so shouldn't be too long in any case.
Cheers
Block is the original 1500 but it has obviously been rebuilt. At that compression something has been shaved and I can't believe that, with the quality of the work, the chain wouldn't have been done.
I think I'll wait until the clutch needs replacing before taking a closer look. It's on its last adjustment so shouldn't be too long in any case.
Cheers
Stuart - Sydney
1968 +2 50/1035
1968 +2 50/1035
- Stuart+2
- Second Gear
- Posts: 118
- Joined: 18 Nov 2006
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