How to remove a +2S TC engine???

[b-havers]

As the engine is ready for a full treatment (the head is already sent away), I need to get the rest of the engine out of the car (1971 +2S).
Having read some post regarding the theme, as well as the Workshop manual and searching the net for information, I am about to give up...

I have removed all the "add on's" (fuel pump, starter motor, dynamo, distributor... ). I still cannot figure how to get the engine out.

First I thought to remove only the engine, and leave the gearbox in situ.
But; as there is not enough space between the cross member and the sump, I cannot free the engine from the gearbox.
So; I'll have to take the gearbox out together with the engine.

But...
How far back do you 'split' the gearbox?
I cannot reach to where the driveshaft goes into the gearbox, so I cannot split them there.
The only way, as I see it, is to split the gearbox in the middle, about where the shift ?ever goes into the box.
Is this possible?
Or will the internal shafts be locked together, and make this split of the gearbox impossible?

Could anyone please help me, and describe how to remove the engine..

I have a galvanized chassis, with a welded plate from mid on the gearbox and backwards to the rear shafts..

[carrierdave]

The way in which I have removed my engine on more than one occasion is to split the engine from the gearbox at the bell housing. If you are worried about the front cross member and the sump ? don?t.

What you need to consider is the fact that you will raise the engine on the engine hoist before you pull it forward.
When you have removed all of the bell housing bolts, the bottom bell housing cover; Put a jack under the sump and take the weight of the engine. Then remove the engine mounts so the engine is only held on the jack.

Then attach the engine lift and raise the engine until the back of the engine/gearbox is a few millimetres from the bulkhead.

You should then be in a position to pull the engine forward ? you may need to shake the engine from site to side to release it.

Just one thing I forgot to mention ? You will need to support the gearbox via a jack or a few bricks.

The engine and gearbox need to be angled up to enable you to pull the engine forward - once you have done this then you should have no problems.
Dave

[b-havers]

Hmm, just the way I thought of doing it..
But.. do you have the 'stock' sump, or is it modified in any way, to make it slip over the crossmember?

The photo was great help, it shows the gearbox left just like I would like to keep mine...

[rgh0]

It all works just as described with the standard sump and no modifications required. I have done my Plus 2 and Elan (whose chassis dimesnions around the engine bay are identival to the plus 2) many times that way.

cheers
Rohan

[carrierdave]

As Rohan said - I have no special sump and the engine comes out withiout a problem.
The trick is to jack or raise the engine as high as you can to clear the front cross member and then pull it forward.
I think I have had the engine out at least 4 times - never had a problem.

Dave

[1964 S1]

Hello Bjorn, as mentioned, the engine can come out without the transmission. Your chassis clearances may not be stock dimensions.
Splitting the transmission is not an option. To remove the driveshaft from the transmission tail, (if you need to tilt the trans more) unbolt the driveshaft from the rear end unit, then wiggle it down and withdraw the shaft towards the rear of the car. Re-installing is a bit of a trick... there's a rubber grommet covered opening on the right side of the trans tunnel inside the car underneath the carpet. You can reach in and glide the spines back into the tranny.
How far is your welded crossmember from the split in the chassis. Do you know who manufactured your chassis?
Good Luck, Eric

[b-havers]

I haven't measured the chassis, but I'm off for the garage in 30 mimnutes time.
Will then try the tips you have given me, and let you know how it went....

Thanks for now

[b-havers]

Gentlemen, the engine is out.

It was very tight, though the head was removed earlier.
The engine had in some mysterious way seized to the gearbox, so I had to use a hammer and screwdriver to split them...

As I didn't manage to remove the exhaust, I guess it was more tight than it ought to be besides the engine. I'll try to split the exhaust now as it is a a bit more spacious around the exhaust now.


And boy, was the engine dirty! Sure it needs a good cleaning, and some new gaskets..

As said earlier, the head was sent off for overhauling before easter vacation, the rest of the engine will be delivered during the week. Then it is to order lot of parts, and wait for the engine to come back, fit all the parts - en try to make it fit into the car again..

How on earth am I gonna manage that, I dont know ...

[reb53]

If you think it was a little difficult with the head already off wait till you try it with the head on.

Give some thought to putting the head on last.
You have a crane so you won't break your back.

The reason I suggest this is because you have much better access to the engine mounts, bolts at the back of the bell-housing that go into the engine, and a bunch of other stuff.
Can't remember them all but do remember once taking the head off first because I knew it was coming off later.

Definitely the easiest one of the several I've done.

Ralph.

[rgh0]

Getting the initial separation of the GB and engine can be hard due to the two alignment hollow dowels in the lower bolt holes. Once these are separated with the first 15mm of movement if the engine is still hard to separate it is useually due to misalignment between the Gb and engine causing the spline on the input shaft to bind. Careful jacking of GB to match the engine angle should resolve this so the engine can easily pull off the shaft.

Putting it back is the same challenge in reverse - good initial aligment to get the splined shaft engaged and then pushing the dowels back in for the last 15mm

cheers
Rohan

[b-havers]

I can hardly wait for the alilgnment process....

[rgh0]

After the first 5 or 6 times you will find it easy -

[rgh0]

The alternative of removing the engine and gearbox as a unit takes about 7 or 8 times to get good at given the angles required to manouvre it in and out, which is why I prefer to split them

[b-havers]

...and when I finally got the engine out, I also found room to twist the exhaust loose.
So; during the install process there will be even more room

[carrierdave]

Hi Bjorn,
Ralph is spot on regarding the head ? IMO I would leave the head off and put the short engine in first. Next put the exhaust manifold in position. (if you leave it until the head is on you will need to remove the side engine mount to get the manifold in)

I then removed all of the exhaust studs from the head and cut slots in the top to take a screw driver.

With the aid of the engine lift you can then lower the head into position whilst holding the manifold back

Its then easy to screw the studs back onto the head with the manifold and exhaust gaskets in place.

If you put the complete engine in you must attach the manifold to the head first or remove the studs otherwise you will not get the manifold in past the engine mount or onto the studs once the complete engine is in place.

Dave