oil pressure gauge fitting
9 posts
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Flushed with the success of getting the engine running after a rebuild I decided to begin the tune up process..
Anyhow engine started fine and ran at 60Psi oil pressure.
Then as I began work on the carbs I heard a squirting noise and saw oil squirting out of the oil pressure fitting on the engine. Immediately turned the engine off..
Hopefully no damage done..
Any how, would like to fit a better (perhaps braided hose) for the oil pressure gauge..
the engine is a 711m (same fitting as the 701m)
Anyone know who might supply this? or what gauge the fitting is on the block and on the smiths gauge?
Cheers
tim
Anyhow engine started fine and ran at 60Psi oil pressure.
Then as I began work on the carbs I heard a squirting noise and saw oil squirting out of the oil pressure fitting on the engine. Immediately turned the engine off..
Hopefully no damage done..
Any how, would like to fit a better (perhaps braided hose) for the oil pressure gauge..
the engine is a 711m (same fitting as the 701m)
Anyone know who might supply this? or what gauge the fitting is on the block and on the smiths gauge?
Cheers
tim
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tdafforn - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 744
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Hi Tim,
How are you?
Slightly off topic...sorry...
Why are you running at 60psi?
Just interested. I had a high pressure (possibly high volume too) 60psi pump in my twin cam. Changed it out for a stock one during the summer.
Just interested to know if there are any reasons (other than maybe racing) for a higher pressure pump.
Take care,
Peter '73 +2S 130/5
How are you?
Slightly off topic...sorry...
Why are you running at 60psi?
Just interested. I had a high pressure (possibly high volume too) 60psi pump in my twin cam. Changed it out for a stock one during the summer.
Just interested to know if there are any reasons (other than maybe racing) for a higher pressure pump.
Take care,
Peter '73 +2S 130/5
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peterako - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 681
- Joined: 02 Mar 2006
I used the angle adaptor from speedograph-richfield.com as the heater hose melted the nylon tube close (with the straight fitting). Now its clear from the hose and the line runs in a nicer angle. The nylon tube accepts more than 150 psi I think. The fittings with the fibre washer sometimes get loose and could need retightening. The engine to fitting adaptor has conical thread towards the engine and is a bit critical to tighten (leakeage/break ). I check the tension of the BSP/washer connections now and then. The braided tube (had one with my car) is very "solid" and rough and might foul other lines.
Anna
(normal oil pressure...)
Anna
(normal oil pressure...)
1965 S2
- Emma-Knight
- Third Gear
- Posts: 363
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004
hi Anna,
Was it
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/ht ... lines.html
item OAA?
I am thinking of matching it up with adpater OA and the type A line, although I notice that the type B has a concave fitting. (oops probably not as I just noticed it is the wrong size!)
Cheers
Tim
Was it
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/ht ... lines.html
item OAA?
I am thinking of matching it up with adpater OA and the type A line, although I notice that the type B has a concave fitting. (oops probably not as I just noticed it is the wrong size!)
Cheers
Tim
-
tdafforn - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 744
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
On oil pressure.
I have a standard oil pump and run a mineral based Castrol 25W-50 oil (referred to in Oz as Castrol Sport Edge). Among other things they claim it will sustain it's viscosity better under (heat) stress.
When cold I always get over 60psi on startup with rev's. Within a minute as it warms up it settles to just over 40psi and then runs happily between 20 (idle) and 40 no matter how long or hard I go. Some years back I ran GTX - never went higher than 45 psi cold and under sustained hard/fast running (especially on hot days) the running pressure could fall to under 30 psi (and 12-15 at idle).
I have a standard oil pump and run a mineral based Castrol 25W-50 oil (referred to in Oz as Castrol Sport Edge). Among other things they claim it will sustain it's viscosity better under (heat) stress.
When cold I always get over 60psi on startup with rev's. Within a minute as it warms up it settles to just over 40psi and then runs happily between 20 (idle) and 40 no matter how long or hard I go. Some years back I ran GTX - never went higher than 45 psi cold and under sustained hard/fast running (especially on hot days) the running pressure could fall to under 30 psi (and 12-15 at idle).
Elliott - 70 S4 dhc
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ElliottN - Second Gear
- Posts: 171
- Joined: 19 Apr 2004
Tim,
yes, its the OAA fitting with the A type tube (flat front for flat fibre washer).
By the way, its possible to undo and refit the brass nipple - its just pressed into the tube. I had a board with a drilling - just big enough to allow the brass fitting to pass through. Leaned the brass "shoulder" on the wood and pulled the nylon pipe back. It should pop of (maybe heat pipe in boiling water for some seconds). Then bulkhead grommet onto pipe and gently clamp the pipe along (ca. 15 cm long) rubber armed vice - just gently - no sqeeze!
Leave about two cm of pipe end to stick out and position brass nipple into pipe opening. Then take a rubber or plasik hammer and knock in. Thats it - no damage on anything.
(I had to do so because of the pipe melted close and therefore had to cut bad section out))
PS do not try to cut the brass out as any scratch on the brass can be a leak afterwards
Anna
yes, its the OAA fitting with the A type tube (flat front for flat fibre washer).
By the way, its possible to undo and refit the brass nipple - its just pressed into the tube. I had a board with a drilling - just big enough to allow the brass fitting to pass through. Leaned the brass "shoulder" on the wood and pulled the nylon pipe back. It should pop of (maybe heat pipe in boiling water for some seconds). Then bulkhead grommet onto pipe and gently clamp the pipe along (ca. 15 cm long) rubber armed vice - just gently - no sqeeze!
Leave about two cm of pipe end to stick out and position brass nipple into pipe opening. Then take a rubber or plasik hammer and knock in. Thats it - no damage on anything.
(I had to do so because of the pipe melted close and therefore had to cut bad section out))
PS do not try to cut the brass out as any scratch on the brass can be a leak afterwards
Anna
1965 S2
- Emma-Knight
- Third Gear
- Posts: 363
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004
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