Gasket sealants

[kenny]

Good old Miles suggests Wellseal, I've always used Hylomar blue and a reputable engine builder nearby swears by ordinary clear silicone.

Putting the engine back together soon and would like to hear what other more informed chaps than me on here have used .

Thanks,

Kenny

PS The seloc washers for Cam cover.........are dowty seals an alterative?

[elanmac]

The original engines made by J.A.P and Villiers used Blue Hylamar with the instruction that a minimum was to be used. If Ford could see any trace on the gaskets the engine would be returned to the works.
Elanmac

[elansprint71]

Wellseal is the absolute business, but...... is a complete bastard to get off your hands (sticks like snot to an oven door). Wear some disposable gloves.

Cheers,
Pete.

[kenny]

Thanks for those replies, The oven door comment has me wondering though
I take it you only use this stuff very sparingly anyway?
What about the sump? I don't fancy taking that bugger off in situ so how much sealant do you put on, just a smear again or a lot?

Final point, MW suggests the use of that graphite compound for all bearings etc. I've just always used copious amounts of engine oil with camlube for cams.
Anyone have experience of this compond here?

Thanks,

Kenny

[steveww]

You have to be careful with RTV (silicon sealant) because if you put just a little too much on, it tends to form beads which can float about and block oil ways Welseal never sets and does not form beads so is much safer.

For the sump it depends what type of chassis you have. If it has a removable cross member then dropping the sump is easy, if not it is an engine out job. You may want to consider making the cross member removable.

Following the advice in the Miles Wilkins book I use Graphogen for the assembly of the cylinder head. I also gave everything a good squirt of engine oil before firing it up for the first time. If they are new cams do not let the engine idle, new cams need to be run it at 2,000 rpm.

[rgh0]

Graphite assembly lube is old technology. Modern assembly lubes are Moly based. I use the Redline assembly lube currently and this has given good results.

The original Lotus sealant recommendations are also old technology. I use the Loctite range generally as follows.

1. Loctite anerobic gasket maker for metal to metal joins - it comes in a few grades depending on the size of the gap being sealed.

2. Loctite no3 aviation gasket cement for paper and cork gaskets ( this is a similar product to Welseal). I use all the standard paper and cork gaskets except for the oil pump where I eliminate it and use the Loctite anerobic gasket makers as the flexibility of the paper gaskets results in the pumps cracking in high reving engines.

3. Loctite high temperature silicone sealant (copper colour) for exhaust to head join and for the half moons in the head and for the corners where the sump gaskets join. Use this very carefuly in very limited amounts to avoid getting lumps of it in the oil system

4. Loctite teflon pipe thread sealant for permanent screwed in plugs in the oil galleries, The standard sealant washer only on the sump plug

The Elan factory web site has a comprehensive write up on their sealant recommendations which are generally consistent with the above find it at the link below

http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/techn ... alants.pdf


regards
Rohan

[kenny]

Superb responses. I will check that link out now.
Much appreciated Rohan.
Regards,
Kenny

[kenny]

OK, just spoken to a supplier of all different compounds so no axe to grind.
He agrees as stated on here that wellseal is a bastrad to use and toxic in a big way.
He said he uses wellseal for oilways from head to block on the CH gasket
I won't be putting any compound on mine....does anyone else?.

Looked at Rohans products and have no doubt they'd do the job.
Hylomar blue is the cheapest and I've used it on other engines without a leak........will it be ok to use on both the cork and paper gaskets.

I'm going with the suggested loctite thread sealer though.

Thanks,

Kenny

[steveww]

The Elan factory web site has a comprehensive write up on their sealant recommendations which are generally consistent with the above find it at the link below

I had a look at their list and they still recommend welseal for a lot of applications. However I do agree that it is a real pain to get off your fingers I also use gloves when working on the cars.

[kenny]

Somebody has just told me that a product called threebond 1215 is the ulitimate ....any guys here used it as it's ?22 a throw

Kenny

[miked]

Rohan,

The 587 is not available in the UK. I tried to get it and talked to Loctite. They gave me an equivalent which is 5900. They actually told me it is no longer made. I think it is perhaps not for the UK market.

The 5900 has the same script about use. Was ?25 for a large gun type tube.

Mike

[denicholls2]

Rohan wrote:

Graphite assembly lube is old technology. Modern assembly lubes are Moly based. I use the Redline assembly lube currently and this has given good results.
---------------
I use a product called MolyKote. It's molybdenum-based and the can I have is at least 25 years old. I haven't had to buy more. Don't know if it's still made.

Be careful with this stuff, though. If you glop it on everything, there will be a big pile of it that needs to move (or not) through your oil passageways. It will also create a sludge pile in the sump. Use only enough to do the job, which is not much.

[rgh0]

I used to use MolyKote which was made by Dow Corning in Germany before I changed to the Redline assembly lube, both work well but Redline claim theirs is better at both protection and dispersion once the engine is run and most of their claims are true. I did a crude dispersal test in engine oil and the Redline did seem to disperse better with less residue sitting around.

Couple of photos of the products attached

regards
Rohan

[tdafforn]

have just found out that Brammers sell Loctite 5900, and they have stores throughout the UK..
Will probably get some for the current rebuild!
Cheers
Tim

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

I'm not too sure about the "Threebond 1215". but the company I work for uses "Dribond 1209" (err German name for same Co.) on all the awkward bits on engines, like half moons.
This is a clear silicone sealant & works well.
Like many of the modern sealants it will only work well on dry oil free surfaces.
The older types of sealants had degreasing chemicals in them that would partially clean oily surfaces.
Health & safety laws have taken them off the market or forced the manufacturer to modify their formulas.
The well loved "Hylomar" is an examle of that. It's different to what it was 20 years ago.
John