New lubricating oils

[264889socal]

The subject of engine oil is always a mixed bag. In the past, engine (dino oils) contained a multitude of ingredients to prevent accelerated wear. A few years ago, most of the over the counter oils were stripped of some of their ability to reduced wear. Diesel oils, Shell Rotella, Chevron Dello, etc., retaind many of the additives until recently and were good alternatives for use with flat tappets.

Today Shell and Chevron for example, are now "emissions friendly" and thus do not provide their past benefits. There are some oils, Valvoline Not Street Legal, the new oil produced at the old Kendall plant, Joe Gibbs, and perhaps some others seem to be the only available oils, which still contain zinc, etc., for use with engines having flat tappets (buckets in the tc), which may have higher than normal valve spring pressure. Red Line has a different base and was not considered due to its rather expensive nature.

To confuse matters, I have been using Mobil One in my Dodge Dually V10, G35 Coupe and the wife's Matrix. Switched from Kendall in the race car (Datsun) to Mobile One as well, but I am not happy with all the results. Horsepower is up, wear on the camshaft is as well. With the purchase of the Elan, the new engine was filled with a straight 30 weight for break in purposes. Now that I have a few miles on the engine, I am looking at changing to a multi grade, but thinking it may be happier with a non synthetic oil. I know I have read many posts going in both directions, however I am wondering if anyone has seen accelerated wear on the cam followers from synthetic oil.

As an aside, the first time I checked the oil level in the Elan, It was way over full per the dip stick. Thought maybe I should change the oil as it may be over full. After adding the required amount of oil, I pulled the dip stick to find the oil level was as exactly before. My first thought was the car came with the wrong dip stick. Then I read a previous post and immediately went and remove the dip stick to check the stamping. The dip stick shows 105E 6752, no "B", and seems to be hitting the bottom of the pan. Wrong dip stick, too short of a dip stick tube? Any guesses?

All comments would be welcome.

Rob Walker

[john.p.clegg]

Shortly I'm due to take the sump off,and while I'm at it am going to measure the "dangly bits",and presuming the MAX oil level is just under the reciprocating "dangly bits" will report back re the oil level,dipstick tube etc.etc.

John

[hatman]

Over time (of which Elans have had plenty!) the dipstick recesses into the housing tube (the limiting flange on the dipstick wears away the retaining tube where it seats) so the marks on the dipstick become less and less relevant. See Brian Buckland's book for confirmation.

The thing to do is completely drain the engine (and filter) of oil then replace with a measured-out 4.25 litres, as per the workshop manual, then, wherever on the dipstick the oil comes to is the correct 'maximum' level which you can mark for future reference (till the rcession eventually renders it incorrect again!)

[264889socal]

Thanks for the help. The Buckland book just arrived yesterday. Have only give it a quick once over, if that's possible. I think I will make a stop on the dip stick so it won't rest on the bottom of the pan. Can turn it into a seal for the tube as well. Then, I'll fill to the proper level and mark the stick. Can't remember if I had the same problem with the Cosworth 1500 I had in my S7... that was way too many years ago. But it must have used the same part.

Rob Walker

[frearther]

Check this string for a good discussion.
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12680

[Si_130/5]

Is Valvoline Racing 20/50 (non synth) likely to cause damage to a 1558 twin cam? I stocked up recently and the containers show API SJ & SL which, according to the linked thread contains 0.11% zinc and 0.1% phosphorous.

Can anyone advise?

Thanks,
Si