Engine Mount Orientation

[mark030358]

Gents,
Put my engine back tonight but it looks like it is too high. Replaced the engine mounts with two new ones from TTR (standard spec) and fitted as follows:-

Mount with straight sides to carb side, curly sides to exhaust side and mounted them in the "fail safe position" ie with the metal to the top so if the rubber fails they will land on the chassis. Question is this the correct way around and have I got the sides correct.?

cheers
MArk

[flyinggellyfish]

I think you have them upside down . I fitted mine with the metal failsafe at the top by mistake and also found the engine sat wrong . Metal section at bottom to catch the engine BEFORE it hits the chassis . This was in my 68+2 , so can not be 100% if yours is a Elan .

Rick

[types26/36]

Mark,
The way you decribe the fitting sounds correct if I understand your post, that is the way mine are fitted and I have no problem.
Brian.

[ElliottN]

For anything I've seen (and I rechecked my S4 dhc), you've definitely got them the right way around (bridge of the metal "U" on engine side to top) - if you fit them upside down the engine will sit around 4 cm (1.5"+) too high and even if it went under the tunnel, the headers wouldn't align to the head anyway, plus you'd never close the bonnet for the valve cover.

Have you compared them to your original brackets? Are they identical? Or, is the rest of your engine bay still empty (no carbs or radiator) - it may just be an optical illusion with the engine alone in an uncluttered engine bay.

Elliott.

[flyinggellyfish]

Well it would appear I had my mounts right the first time and now they are wrong .
So the metal bridge sits at the top and when the mounts fail the engine falls down ? When my mounts were fitted this way I had a job getting the bolts in and the engine did not look right , plus the crank pulley appeared very close to the vac chamber .
Can someone now confirm my mounts are correct or incorrect as I am now confused .
1968 Elan +2

[per]

I put mine failsafe last weekend. I had to set all 6 screws loose and tighten the 2 closets to the frame before tightening the 4 to the engine. This way the flex in the rubber allowed both side of the engine to fit. My fellow country man posted this picture on the web. <a href='http://web.telia.com/~u13106776/DSC02282.JPG' target='_blank'>http://web.telia.com/~u13106776/DSC02282.JPG</a> The only picture I have found so far on the subject.

[ElliottN]

The engine side of the bracket is "U" shaped - but upside down when installed. Chassis side is a vertical plate. If the mount failed the engine would drop and the bridge (hey - the bottom of the "U" which is now on top!) would stop on top of the vertical plate on the chassis side of the mount. Other way round and the engine will drop until it hits the road (ok that wouldn't happen - the carbs would hit the footwell, the load would go on the the transmission and exhaust and.... you don't want to think about it).
If you've got Miles Wilkins TC book - have a look at page 67 or 75.

[mark030358]

Gents thanks for the replies. Great to know people will help.
Anyway, now I've had it confirmed they are correct took some more measurements as follows:-
1) put a length of 1" wide length of wood across the cambox (chain end) and cut this to length so that it just reached the wings. From the windscreen side of the wood measured the following distances, drivers side(UK) 23.0mm, passenger side (UK) 0.0mm.
2) placed some kidsplaydough on the cam box cover (all the way across with a thickness of about 10.0mm) and slowly fitted the bonnet. The only place to where the playdough "went through" was at the highest point on the cam box.

So I reckon I have to drop at least 5mm to allow for engine movement but not sure how to get this. I coud elongate the engine mounting bracket holes or even put my old mounts back. (As an aside the gearbox is well up and hence I cannot drop the height of the engine by pivoting it any more.)

Could someone do the same measurements for me and any suggestions on how to drop this extra distance?

cheers
Mark

[types26/36]

Mark,
Sorry but I just dont understand what you are measuring? 23mm to what?
Brian

[mark030358]

Brian,
Forgot to say the distance between the bottom of the wooden strip and the top of the wing, just where it folds down.

cheers
Mark

[types26/36]

Mark,
I make it 21.5 mm r/side and minus 21.5 on the left, the wood (actually metal in my case) is running parrel with the raised oblong that reads big valve.
Brian

[types26/36]

Incidentally I have a 5 mm thick piece of sponge stuck to the bonnet adjacent to the highest point and it is rubbing on it by about 2 mm so I would guess I have + - 3 mm clearance.
Brian

[mark030358]

Brian,
thanks for that. Elongated engine mounts for me then!

cheers
Mark

[mark030358]

Brian,
forgot to ask, how old are your mounts?

cheers
Mark

[types26/36]

Mark,
They are about three years old but have not seen much use in that time.
I had a similar issue when I fitted a T.Cam based on a tall block (1600) to my Seven although it had the Mk2 cam cover (LOTUS across the front) One way round it is to fit the Mk1 cam cover (LOTUS both sides) as this is lower at the front but I doubt you will want to fit the Mk1 cover to a Sprint.
Brian