Test new harness
7 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Can someone verify where I connect the test fuse when checking out a new dash wiring installation please and size of fuse. I read somewhere on the forum that 5amp was sufficient but that sounds a bit low to me, so suggestions please.
Which of the wires on the solenoid do I connect a test fuse to, the large brown or the white/red.
Also with the window motors is it better to instal a relay at the motor end or closer to the switch end or use a fuse instead of a relay for each motor
Thanks
Which of the wires on the solenoid do I connect a test fuse to, the large brown or the white/red.
Also with the window motors is it better to instal a relay at the motor end or closer to the switch end or use a fuse instead of a relay for each motor
Thanks
- tonyabacus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 435
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Brown to a battery charger +ve and use a mutimeter from the -ve to the circuit you wish to test.
What size wire has been used to the windows? If it is beefy, I do not see the need for a relay. NB, new harness, relay or no relay - the motors and guiderails MUST be in tip top order.
What size wire has been used to the windows? If it is beefy, I do not see the need for a relay. NB, new harness, relay or no relay - the motors and guiderails MUST be in tip top order.
Hal Adams
Evora SR
Elan +2
Evora SR
Elan +2
-
HCA - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1087
- Joined: 03 Jan 2020
Tony,
I think the test fuse suggestion came from Brian Buckland. I installed my test fuse between the battery and the main battery lead, I can’t remember the size, but the idea is to prevent an error doing some damage.
The doors were off the car at the time, so my test of the windows was just to see if I had voltage and that the polarity changed with the switch.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
I think the test fuse suggestion came from Brian Buckland. I installed my test fuse between the battery and the main battery lead, I can’t remember the size, but the idea is to prevent an error doing some damage.
The doors were off the car at the time, so my test of the windows was just to see if I had voltage and that the polarity changed with the switch.
Hope this helps,
Richard Hawkins
- RichardHawkins
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1268
- Joined: 05 Jul 2008
Thanks both for the suggestions,
I seem to recall that Brian Buckland was advocating a test fuse attached to the solenoid but although there was talk of it on the forum, I cannot find it.I cannot remember which terminal it linked. I did not think it was on the battery lead but perhaps the other heavy brown wire with the wide terminal, but wanted to check before I go ahead and also the fuse size.
If anyone has a link to the article where this was talked about I would appreciate it, or has used this method themselves
Thanks
Tony
I seem to recall that Brian Buckland was advocating a test fuse attached to the solenoid but although there was talk of it on the forum, I cannot find it.I cannot remember which terminal it linked. I did not think it was on the battery lead but perhaps the other heavy brown wire with the wide terminal, but wanted to check before I go ahead and also the fuse size.
If anyone has a link to the article where this was talked about I would appreciate it, or has used this method themselves
Thanks
Tony
- tonyabacus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 435
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Buckland book says "pull off the loom supply from the solenoid and re-connect with a specially made up in-line fuse (20A)". I used one of these https://www.halfords.com/motoring/tools ... 8AQAvD_BwE
Mike
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
1967 S3 FHC
1968 S4 FHC
- smo17003
- Third Gear
- Posts: 392
- Joined: 11 May 2006
Thanks for all the replies, I take it that is the terminal with the wide connectors
Tony
Tony
- tonyabacus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 435
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
7 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests