IWiring a High torque starter

[elanner]

Haven't followed this thread in detail but I run mine with both solenoids active because I think it's useful to have the bulkhead solenoid operational. Then it's easy to turn the engine using the solenoid's button without having to reach around to the ignition key. And being able to turn the engine with the ignition off comes in handy occasionally.

Nick

[billwill]

the ballast ignition is unnecessary

I am not sure I'd agree with that. I've re-instated my ballast system in my car with pre-engage starter and 123 Dizzy.

Previously with just the pre-engage starter I still had difficulties with cold starts after longer lay ups. It is now much improved but not sure how much of that is ballast setup, new dizzy or having improved the battery earth connection.

Personally I would leave the ballast in-place and just use the bridge wire on the new starter.

BUT if you remove the trigger connection from the bulkhead solenoid, the ballast resistor will NEVER be shorted to give that extra boost to your startup sparks. It may seem to be redundant but if you do that you are removing any advantage that the ballast resistor provided.

Oh, wait I see .... (your comment is a bit ambiguous; by using the word "bridge", when all prior reference to bridge in this topic related to bridging the bulkhead solenoid), you mean leave the bulkhead solenoid as is using the same triggering as is, but connect the trigger on the new starter to the main power feed to that new starter. Such methods are commonly used with these pre-engaged starter motors I think.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_solenoid

[pharriso]

Good point re ballast resistor system. Mine has this upgrade. The ballast resistor ignition was designed to help cold start with traditional starter and points. I already have electronic ignition and now with the benefit of the high torque starter's higher cranking power at less current draw, the ballast ignition is unnecessary and so I plan to remove the 1.4 Ohm coil and the 1.6 ohm ballast resistor and fit an ordinary 3 Ohm coil.

Disagree, I have electronic ignition & a pre-engaged starter, having the ballast resistor ignition still helps starting, particularly when it's cold.

[stugilmour]

Interesting thread.

I removed the stock solenoid, replacing it with a simple 12v + terminal block like this. The terminal block connects several Brown Hot at All Times - Unfused wires, including the firewall mounted feed from the aftermarket alternator (stock voltage regulator and Plus 2 dash ammeter also removed), battery positive, pre-engaged starter main lead and main supply to the rest of the loom (through a fusible link).

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/ ... tegory/200

BATTERY LEAD JUNCTION BOX
A plastic junction box with a hinged lid capable of 300A continuous. It has 2 x 8mm studs so that many cables can be joined, and a fixing hole enabling it to be surface mounted.

Approximate dimensions 60 x 42 x 42mm

Can’t recall my car originally having the ballast resistor setup, but the original is replaced with aftermarket electronic ignition anyway.

I also added a two terminal plastic connector that easily accepts a remote starter switch that came with my timing light. I just plug the switch in when servicing the car. Handy feature I added later as I definitely missed being able to turn the car over from under the bonnet. I suppose the same functionality could be available if you leave clip-on access to the Red/White starter trigger wire (clipping the hot side of the remote switch to the main positive terminal block).

Just the way I did it. Works fine.